Page:Through a Glass Lightly (1897, Greg).djvu/74

 senior physician of the Faculty of Medicine in Beaune defended his wine in a thesis which ran into five editions in less years; and thus the brave dispute was waged from generation to generation. Have we, then, no more to say of the wine to-day than that it possesses grand blood-making properties? Alas, we English hardly know it. For whoso would drink the true Burgundian elixir must seek the land of its adoption ere he shall light on perfection, since the grapes that yield it are the offspring of rare and favoured vineyards. True, there are good Burgundies in England, at a modest price even, which recall the prime growths at least in name; but it is a common trick to export the thinnest of wines under the style and title of the best. Thus, we can get Romanée Conti, which is the crowned king of all the