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second season after I was there, the central peak, by many believed to be unclimbable, was conquered by Captain Head, R.A., with New Zealand guides. The year before it had been attempted by an experienced climber, Dr. Teichelmann of Hokitika, who brought back a unique series of photographs. His attempt was made from the west, where so many days were lost in cutting a track through heavy bush country, that for lack of time the central peak had to be abandoned. Much of the range was, however, explored by him in company with Alex. Graham of the Waiho gorge. This young guide, with Mr. J. Clarke of the New Zealand Geological Survey, discovered the route by which Captain Head made the ascent of the highest peak, 9,975 feet.

I append some extracts from a letter I received from him, giving a graphic account of the climb:

“Our first attempt was made up the east branch, but in this we were destined to disappointment, for after establishing a base-camp, in bad weather, and then waiting for several days for it to clear, we found that it would be impossible from that position. The Pope’s Nose (which is really a