Page:Through China with a camera.pdf/308

 raiment — Chang. A padded robe of classic cut, with sleeves reaching down to his knees, and a collar that stood up like a fortress, around his neck. When in a corner, seated at study, he looked like a huge bolster surmounted by a tiny cap. He would remain in this posture for hours, with his eyes closed, and audibly rehearsing whole books of classic lore ; but he had also a good deal of accurate information about the country, and was extremely polite in his manner, and willing to make him- self useful. It was a mistake having two boats; their unequal sailing powers caused grievous delay — delays which the servants and cook readily turned to account in explaining all sorts of shortcomings, and which contributed greatly to the leisure and enjoyment of the crews who were paid by the day. On the 23rd we passed the point where the Ta-Kiang — or great river — is joined by the stream from the Tung-Ting lake. At this place there were abundant evidences of considerable trade in the fleets of boats we continually passed. The river, in some of the long reaches hereabouts, would be dangerous for steam navigation, at any rate during the months when the banks are submerged. Hence suitable landmarks would have to be erected, as not a single tree, shrub, or knoll, can at such times be seen for many miles around. All the shoals at this (the winter) season are well defined, and, with the exception of two reefs of rocks which stand well clear of the water, consist of soft mud and sand, and occur just at bends, where anyone accustomed to river navigation would expect to find them. Wherever the current struck upon the clay, a good channel was almost invariably to be found.

On the 24th we ascended a small rapid which ran about five knots, and were detained by a snow-storm for about six hours. The little hamlets we passed, or anchored at, day after day,