Page:Three Years in Europe.djvu/382

338 is situated. It is like a vast amphitheatre which seems almost closed by the island of Capri in the south and those of Procida and Ischia on the north. A great part of this vast amphitheatre is studded with white buildings which look all the prettier from a distance, while the great Visuvius rises in the back ground, with its eternal film of white smoke ascending in a blue cloudless Italian sky. Such is Naples as viewed by an artist or a partial tourist. But a closer view of the town somewhat disenchants him! In spite of some fine roads and many fine buildings, Naples is a dirty town, one of the dirtiest, I think, even of Italian towns. Beggars too, rare in countries like England, France or Germany, are a nuisance in Italy, and many of those who publicly practise begging in the streets are by no means deserving of charity.

The palace of Naples is a historic building and has been the residence of long lines of kings who reigned in Naples when Naples was a separate kingdom. In front of the palace is the church of St. Francisco de Paolo with a graceful semi-circular portico on either side. The old castle is now appropriated by the Municipality. The Via Roma is the finest road in the town, and runs through nearly half its length. The Aquarium of Naples is probably the finest in the world, and contains sea-anemones of various kinds, and live conches, sponges and corals of all shapes and beautiful colours. An electric fish sent a shock into my arm as I touched it.