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170 they could move neither arm nor leg! Their faces only were visible when not covered with cloth.

The Lapps have high cheek-bones like the hill people near Assam, but they are shorter than any people I have yet seen. Reindeer milk is their chief means of subsistence, and reindeer is their sole property. There was a glacial time when this strange animal lived in the south of Europe, but it is extinct now except in Lapland. We saw a herd of them in this encampment. Some of the Lapps speak Norwegian—and they had brought skin purses and boots and horn-spoons and knives (their own manufacture) for sale among the passengers.

Photographing is a mania in Europe, and there are amateur photographers everywhere. When we were coming from Hull to Norway a clergyman photographed us with his wife and child and kindly gave us some copies of the photograph which he printed on board. On the "Capella" one of the ex-members of the Parliament, of whom I have spoken before, photographed us with a number of other passengers. And now here in the Lapp encampment the German Professor photographed all of us with a few of the Lapps and their reindeer also. Some professional photographers of Tromso too had come and took us all, and they told us the copies would be ready for sale by the time we returned from the North Cape.

After dinner we strolled in the town of Tromso, looking at the furs and skins of polar animals exposed for sale, and buying some photographs of the Midnight Sun—as we hardly expected to see it as the weather had