Page:The wonders of optics (1869).djvu/88

 It must be remembered when considering this subject, that in any system of undulations or vibrations, no matter through what medium they are propagated, their movement is simply a change of form, and not a transmission of matter. The waves which spread round a central point when a stone is thrown into the water, give one the idea that the water which forms the wave really moves towards the observer. But it is not so, as may be readily proved by placing on the surface a floating body, which we shall find is but little, if at all, influenced by the undulations of the water. The appearance of rolling waves given on the stage by means of a painted cloth, to which an undulatory motion is given, is an instance of this apparent movement. In the case of the floating body, which would follow the movements of the water, we shall find that wave after wave rolls to the shore, in the same way as the painted marks on the imitation sea keep their place, although the cloth itself undulates. The waves of the sea even appear to the eye to be endowed with a progressive motion, but an instant's observation will convince us of our error; for if such were the case, every object floating on the ocean would be gradually carried on shore. A vessel floating on the waves is not carried along by them, at least not until it reaches within a few yards of the shore, where the water is really in motion; but out in the open sea a floating body will alternately rise on their crests, and fall into the valleys that separate them. The same effect may be observed with any object floating on the water. If, however, in addition to being in a state of undulation the sea is really in motion from the effects of a current, or from any other cause, the floating object will of course be carried along by it—in fact, the two movements are quite independent of each other, and may take place in similar or contrary directions. It is very important that we should be able to distin