Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/8



PROBLEM OF UNDERWEAR.

In order to control the practical details in all kinds of women's and misses' undergarments, it will be necessary to systemize the modern way of controlling every proportional branch of the body. Let it, therefore, be understood that the art of pattern making for the underwear line depends greatly on the proportional measurements which are a necessity for perfect fitting and comfortable wearing garments.

Therefore, note that diagram number 1 on the opposite page which illustrates that the total height of the body is divided into 8 divisions whereby is illustrated systematically the proper way of clothing the body, as follows: ⅛ of the total height of the body covers the head space; 2—8 the natural waist length in back from the socket bone to the hollow of waist, and ⅝ covers the space from the hollow of waist to the ground which is the full length for such garments as petticoats, drawers, pajamas and nightgowns.

SEE FIGURE NUMBER 2 FOR WIDTH PROPORTIONS.

The breast measurement is taken all around the body at number 2. The bust measurement is taken all around the body at number 3. The waist measurement is taken all around the body at number 4. The hip measurement is taken all around the body at number 5, which is 6 inches below the waist line. If measurements for drawers are wanted take knee measurement at number 6; calf measurement at number 7 and ankle measurement at number 8.

In order to specify the proper guide for the length of spaces, we follow the standard height proportion, which is for size 36, 5 feet 6 inches amounting to 66 inches. The first step taken in obtaining the proportional measurements in length is as follows: ¼ of the total height and 1 inch less makes the natural waist length in back. To make this clear, take ¼ of 5 feet 6 inches or 66 inches which amounts to 16½ inches and 1 inch less leaving 15½ inches for the natural waist length in back. For the balance of height which is from the waist to the ground according to the total height division we find ⅝ of the total height which is 5 times 8¼ inches which makes 41¼ inches. To make the proper place of rise or hip line which is from the waist to the crutch we find the space of 12 inches which is explained in the following pages. Therefore, deduct 12 inches from 41¼ inches leaving 29¼ inches for inside length. To obtain the proper place of knee, calf and ankle according to this height take half of 29¼ inches and 2 inches less which amounts to 12⅝ inches. In order to designate the space for calf the space should be 6 inches below the knee line as illustrated according to diagram number 2 illustrating width proportions. See complete table of proportions in the following pages.