Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/72

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PROBLEM OF GRADING FOR WOMEN'S AND MISSES' UNDERWEAR

In order to begin the grading for women's and misses' underwear, we are to understand that the model size for women's sizes is size 36 and the model size for misses is size 16. To grade the various larger or smaller sizes for each and every branch, it would he necessary to make perfect our first pattern, which is size 36 for women and size 16 for misses in such manner that it will give full satisfaction to the designer in its style and fit.

It should therefore be understood that the model pattern is to be perfect before the grading is begun. To be clear with grading, it is very important to remember that proportional measurements of such model size and also of the various sizes which we are to grade from such model pattern. For instance, if we are to grade a set of patterns for women's sizes for which the model size pattern is 36, we are to be fully acquainted with the measurements of a size 34 which is the first size below size 36, and also of the various larger sizes, such as sizes 38, 40, 42 and 44. In doing this correctly it would be necessary to note the increase in back depth between every size.

At the same time, remember that the back depth and waist length are an increase in length, and in addition to the same we are to remember the increase of the width proportions between sizes, such as breast, bust, waist and hip measurements. It is also necessary to know that to grade the camisole the difference between breast or bust measurements, which, as a rule, differs with 2 inches all around, or 1 inch half way. For corset covers and brassieres it is necessary to note the difference between breast, bust and waist measurements only. When grading, chemise night-gowns and any other long garments, in addition we have to note the difference in hip measurements. When grading such garments which are below the waist, such as bloomers, drawers and pajamas we are to grade them according to the waist and hi s p measurements only. For grading entirely tight-fitting drawers we additionally add measurements of knee, calf and ankle whereby the entire underwear line can be full and practically graded for which the figure on the opposite page illustrates the entire set of measurements for the underwear line.