Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/66

848

MISSES' FOUNDATION OUTLINES—Size 16.

Lesson No. 436

In order to begin the misses' foundation outlines all we need to remember is the difference between womens' and misses' proportions, and for best results the student will act practically by comparing the measurements of a woman's size 36 and a misses' size 16 for which the table of proportions are prepared in the front pages of this volume. To begin to draft we are to prepare the foundation according to standard measurements, which are as follows:

To begin to draft draw square lines as usual from A to C and A to R. Then measure from A to B, 6¾ inches back depth and from A to C, 15 inches natural waist length and draw lines from A to R, B to W and C to X. Measure 2/3 of 34 inches which is the chest measurement for size 16 amounting to 11 3/8 inches from A to D, B to E and C to F.

Now prepare the width of back. Divide the space on the breast line between B and E making G. Allow from G to H, 1¼ inches. Then measure the space from B to H on the breast line and place the same amount on the top line from A to I and connect a line from I to H. Measure 1/6 of 34 inches amounting to 2⅞ inches from A to J and from J raise up to K with 1 inch. Draw a line from K against I to L and square a line from L to meet H which will according to this action give the correct width of shoulder. Measure from C to M on the waist line 2 inches and connect with a line up to A which will make the incline of the back and complete the entire back foundation.

To continue with the front measure from E to N and D to O, 1/6 of 34 inches and draw a line from N to O. Measure again 1/6 of 34 inches from O to P, P to R and P up to Q and connect a line from Q to T. Now measure the back shoulder from K to L and apply the same amount from Q to U and connect a line from U to N which will complete the front arm-hole line. When being as far as this measure half of bust measurement from T to V amounting to 18½ inches according to 37 inches bust measurement and allow 3 inches for seams from V to W. Now square a line down from W, X to Y. Add ½ inch for a seam in front of R and up to S. Then draw a line from S against W down to Z which completes this foundation to the edge of the front which is now ready for following up for any purpose for the various garments as shown for size 36 for the underwear line. For additional misses' sizes see table of proportions.