Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/64

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WOMAN'S FIVE-GORE PETTICOAT—Size 36

Lesson No. 435

To begin the five-gore petticoat make the foundation outlines as for the lesson explained before with the difference that we are to allow 2½ inches for 5 seams at the waist and hip lines after measuring the waist and hip measurements. Begin by measuring the front panel which is 3 inches from 12 to 13 at the waist line and 6 inches at the bottom curve from 2 to 14, and draw a straight line from 13 to 14.

Now divide the inner gores. Divide the space equally from 13 to 6 at the waist line making 15 and the same way divide the bottom curve from 14 to 10 making 11 and draw a straight line from 15 to 11 making the side seam for a five-gore petticoat. If fullness is wanted at the waist line leave the foundation as it is without taking any dart out. Should we want a dart follow the rule and regulations as explained in the last lesson.

Take special notice that this petticoat can be drafted according to any measurements wanted. For instance, if a large waist measurement is desired with small hip measurement, which is, as a rule, changeable every season according to the shape of various models use the same system according to such measurements. If 28 inches waist measurement is desired simply measure according to this diagram from 1 to 3, ½ of 28 inches waist measurement amounting to 14 inches. Then continue from 3 to 4 allowing 3 inches for fullness and allow for this five-gore petticoat from 4 to 5, 2½ inches for seams and raise the same way up a line from 5 to 6 amounting to 4½ inches. Otherwise, act as explained before including hip measurement whatever it may be with the understanding that according to this diagram we measure ½ of hip measurement from 7 to 8 and allow 2½ inches for seams from 8 to 9, which is the same amount as allowed at the waist. Then draw a back line from 6 toward 9 and 10 and finish the bottom of this petticoat as usual.

If petticoats are desired for misses' sizes, all it would be necessary is to use the waist and hip measurements as given on the table of proportions for misses' sizes. Lengths may be followed according to the table of proportions or according to style. It is very important to know that lengths are, as a rule, followed according to style, because the petticoat is always to be shorter with 1 or 2 inches than the dress or skirt and, therefore, the length shall be guided according to the length of skirts or dresses.