Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/62

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WOMAN'S TWO PIECE OR FOUR-GORE PETTICOAT—Size 36

Lesson No. 434

In order to begin the petticoat use the following standard measurements or for stylish measurements see the Practical Adviser of Proportions.

To begin draw a line from 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 and measure half of 25 inches waist measurement from 1 to 4 amounting to 12½ inches. Then allow from 4 to 3, 3 inches for fullness and allow 1 inch additional if only a side seam is wanted, which is useful for a two-piece petticoat. If this petticoat is supposed to be four-gore allow 2 inches for seams and 3 inches for fullness for which the total amount, in such case, will he 5 inches between 4 and 3. Then raise up from 3 to 5, 4½ inches and connect with a line from 1 to 5. Raise up from 1 to 9, 1 inch and curve, as shown on the diagram, from 9, 10 to 5.

Now measure from 1 to 6 and 5 to 7, 6 inches and draw a line from 6 to 7 making the hip line. Measure from 6 to 7 half of 43 inches hip measurement amounting to 21½ inches and 1 inch additional for a seam making 22½ inches. Draw a line from 5 towards 7 down to 8 and measure from 5 to 8, 42 inches back length. Now divide the space on the waist line from 9 to 5 equally making 10. Measure the bottom from 2 to 8 making 11 and connect a line from 10 to 11 and measure from 10 to 11, 41 inches side length. Now curve the bottom from 2 towards 11 to 8. This completes the petticoat in two-pieces or four-pieces with gathers at the waist.

Should no gathering be wanted around the waist, then measure the waist curve from 9 to 5. If the space there measures 18 inches take out for a dart the amount that is over half of waist including the amount allowed for seams, which is as follows: Half of 25 inches waist is 12½ inches and if 2 inches are allowed for seams which makes 14½, in such case, deduct 14½ inches from 18 inches, which shows there is an over-amount of 3½ inches. In this case, take out from each side of 10 to 12 and 13, 1¾ inches and curve from 12 and 13 lost to the hip line to 14. This will complete the two-piece or four gore petticoat.