Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/60

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WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE SLEEVE ON TOP OF ARMHOLE

Lesson No. 433

In order to begin the sleeve note that for underwear where sleeves are necessary only one-piece sleeves as a rule, are used. Therefore, note the diagram on the opposite page showing how simply can obtain a one-piece sleeve on top of the armhole which saves a great deal of time and material. When a one-piece sleeve is desired complete the entire draft of the garment wanted with an equal divided armhole and then act as follows:

To begin measure 1/8 of size amounting to 4½ inches at the back from H to 3 and the same from 3 to 4. For the front measure the same 1/8 of size from M to 1 and 1 to 2. Then connect a line from 2 to 4 as shown on the diagram, and draw a line down at the back from 3 to 5 and at the front from 1 to 6. Measure the inner sleeve length which is for the full length sleeve 18 inches and measure this amount from 3 to 5 and 1 to 6. Then connect a line for the bottom of sleeve from 5 to 6. Now note that in order to complete the head of the sleeve we curve for the back part of the sleeve from 4 towards 11 to EE and for the front head of the sleeve we curve from E towards 12 to 2. This will complete the upper part of the sleeve which will fit the particular armhole the sleeve is drafted on.

To finish the bottom of the sleeve to any width desired, we should first decide the width wanted. For instance, make 12 inches for the bottom or cuff of this sleeve. In such case, measure from 5 to 7 at the back part 6 inches and at the front part from 6 to 8 also 6 inches and connect with a curved line, as shown on the diagram, from EE to 7 for the back sleeve and curve from E to 8 for the front sleeve. Then add a ½ inch at the bottom sleeve from 5 to 9 and connect 9 to 7 and the same way add a ½ inch from 6 to 10 and connect with a curve from 8 to 10, which will complete the entire one-piece sleeve with all necessary seams allowed.

If the sleeve is desired in ½, ¼ or ¾ length, then act as follows: For a ½ length sleeve take half of the inside length from EE to 7 or E to 8 which amounts to 9 inches for a ½ sleeve length. If a ¼ length sleeve is desired take ¼ from E and EE down towards the bottom which amounts to 4½ inches. When a ¾ length sleeve is wanted take ¼ of the inside length from the armhole down, which amounts to 13½ inches. The full length sleeve as the diagram shows is from the armhole down and amounts to 18 inches.