Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/56

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WOMAN'S PAJAMA BLOUSE—Size 36

Lesson No. 430

In order to begin the pajama blouse follow the measurements and foundation outlines according to the first and second lessons of this volume as far as the bust measurement with seams allowed, and then continue as follows:

Make the bottom line for the complete length by measuring 12 inches from C to ZZ and draw a line across from ZZ to Z. This will bring a normal length for the pajama blouse. Now square a line down from the breast line which is from V to W and extend at the waist line from W to Y, 1 inch and draw a line from V against Y down to Z which will give the edge of the front. From V connect a line up to the front neck point to R. As a rule, a low opening is made for the pajama blouse, then draw a straight line from the front shoulder joint from P to V and allow 1½ inches for button-stand from V to 4 at the breast line, Z to 5 at the bottom line and connect 4 to 5. Should it be necessary to have the button-stand all the way up to the neck continue 1½ inches parallel to the front neck edge up to R.

Now make the side seam and armhole. Divide equally the space between H and M making AA and draw a straight line down from AA to 1. Take out from each side of AA to E and X a ½ inch. Curve from X to E down to the bottom line lost to 1. Should we want a more straight side blouse deduct a ½ inch at the bottom line at each side of 1 to 2 and 3 and connect X to 3 and E to 2. Then raise up ¼ of an inch at 1, which is the bottom of the side seam and curve ZZ to 1, which is the bottom curve of the back and curve from 1 to Z to the edge of the front for the bottom of the front. Then curve the armhole for ordinary deepness at the back from L to X and for the front from T to E. As no seam back is wanted, follow the straight line of the center back from A to ZZ and deduct there ⅜ of an inch for no seam back as shown on the diagram by the dotted line.

To make the pocket in the patch style at the breast part of the blouse place the same 1 inch in from M to 6 and draw a line from 6 to 7 about ½ inch bias from the breast line down. Measure from 6 to 7, 5 inches for size 36 which is a ½ inch more than ⅛ of size. Now draw a line down from 6 to 9 and 7 to 8 and measure there 1 inch additional, amounting to 6 inches and connect 8 to 9, which will complete the bottom of the patch pocket which may be changed according to style or taste.

Should a lower pocket be wanted use the same instruction, with the exception that the lower pocket is to he placed at least 2 inches below the waist line. The size of the pocket is to occupy the same space. This completes the pajama blouse with all necessary seams allowed.