Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/52

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WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING DRAWERS, FRONT PART—Size 36

Lesson No. 427

To begin the tight-fitting drawers front part draw outlines according to the same principle as for the pantaloons with the exception of the lower part which is the knee, calf and ankle and use measurements, as follows:

In order to begin follow the upper part from waist to hip as explained for the pantaloon pajamas. Measure from A to C, 12 inches rise and from A to G, 41 inches outside length. Then divide equally between B and G making Y and raise up from Y, 2 inches making C. Cross a line from A to K for waist line; B to I hip line and from C to 1 knee line. Measure from C to E lower with 6 inches and cross a line from E to 3 for calf line and G to 5 for bottom or ankle line. Allow from B to U, 1½ inches for fullness and curve from Q to U which is from the waist to the hip at the side seam. Then divide the space equally between B and I making S and draw a line up from S to L and from S down towards V, W and T, which makes the center line for the front part of the tight-fitting drawers.

Now make the knee, ankle and call as follows: Note that the knee measurement is 13 inches. Take ¼ of 13 inches amounting to 3¼ inches and measure it at each side of V to 1 and 2. Measure 15 inches for calf, taking ¼ of 15 inches amounting to 3¾ inches at each side of W to 3 and 4 on the calf line. To make the ankle or bottom of the front see that the ankle or bottom amounts to 12 inches. Take ¼ of 12 inches amounting to 3 inches at each side of T to 5 and 6. Make curves according to the diagram of the front part for the outside from Q to U towards 2 and 4 down to 6 and for the inside seam make a curve from I, 1 and 3 down to 5. This completes the front part with all seams allowed.

WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING DRAWERS, Back Part— Size 36

Lesson No. 428

To make the back part continue on the front part as follows: Raise a straight line up from L to K measuring 3 inches. Draw a line from L to P and measure from L to A ¼ of 25 inches waist amounting to 6¼ inches and allow from A to P, 3 inches for seams and fullness. Allow from B to U, 3 inches and from 2 to C, 4 to E and 6 to G, 1½ inches. Then curve from K to the main crutch of the front to J, as shown on the diagram, and curve from J to I down towards H and M. Measure, as usual, from I to M, 1/12 of hip measurement and from H to M is 1 inch allowed for seams. Allow 1½ inches for seams from 1 to Y, 3 to F and 5 to D and curve the bottom from G to D. Should a more fitted waist be wanted follow the dart instructions as explained in the lesson of the pantaloon pajamas.