Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/48

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WOMAN'S STEP-IN CHEMISE—Size 36

Lesson No. 423

In order to begin the step-in chemise, prepare the complete foundation of the ordinary chemise, which is fully explained on pages 806 and 807, and then continue as follows:

To continue for the step-in chemise, measure from the breast line down, which is from 2 to 7, 18 inches, and draw a line from 7 to 77, which is the proper length from the upper part of this chemise. Then there will remain a balance of 11 inches from 7 to 5, and you will note that 5 is the bottom line of the ordinary chemise. Now lower from 7 to 44 at the centre back line with 1 inch and at the front from 77 to 55 lower with 2 inches and connect a line from 44 to 36, which completes the length in the proper shape for the back. Also connect a line from 55 to 37, which will finish in the proper shape the bottom of the front. When these bottom lines are completed we are about ready to prepare the separate parts of the step-in effect on the very same foundation, therefore. note that the line from 7 to 77 is the beginning line for the lower part or step-in effect.

To complete the step-in effect for the back part, measure the space between 5 and 6, and note that the line at 6 is the line continued from the center back seam of the chemise, which is continued from 35 towards 4 down to 6. Therefore, measure the space from 5 to 6 and apply the same from 5 to 66 and draw a line from 6 towards 66 to 88. Now measure the space from 6 to 66 and apply the same from 66 to 88. Then curve from 88, as shown on the diagram, lost to 33, which will make the bottom curve of the back part of the step-in effect. Now measure at the bottom of the front from 12 to 80, 3 inches and also from 12 to 81, 3 inches and connect with a line from 81 to 80. You will note that the space from 80 to 81 measures the same amount as the space at the back from 6 to 88 and then curve the bottom of the front from 34 to 81. Connect a line from 77 to 80, which is the front edge of the front part for the step-in effect.

The neck opening for this garment, as a rule, is made on the same principle as for the ordinary chemise, with a slight difference that it is made with a lost shoulder strip. Therefore take half of each shoulder, for the back from 20 to 21, making 39, and curve from X to 39, and from 39 to the armhole deepness at 38. The front shoulder divide the same way from 24 to 25, making 40, and curve from 40 to 9, to the front edge, and from 40 to 38, to the bottom of the armhole, as shown on the diagram. Should a V shape neck be wanted, follow the trace lines for the front from 40 to 9 and for the back from 39 to X.

To cut out the step-in effect, note that the straight line from 7 to 77 is the top line of the step-in effect and therefore cut out the back from 36 to 7, to the center back down to 6, from 6 to 88, and from 88 to 33 up to 36. To cut out the front, cut from 37 to 77 down to 80 and 81, and from 81 to 34 up to 37. When these parts are cut out you will note, as a rule, there are no seams allowed at the side of the step-in effect, and, therefore, see instructions below.

Also note that according to the usual rule the bottom of the step-in from 6 to 88 and 80 to 81 are seamed together, but for more practical use according to our diagram we show the same can he buttoned. Therefore allow 1 inch button-stand at the bottom of the back part from 6 to A and 88 to B, as shown on the diagram. Otherwise, this step-in chemise is complete with all necessary seams allowed.  WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE STEP-IN—Size 36

Lesson No. 424

To make the step-in effect in one-piece, cut out as explained and copy the back part as shown on the miniature diagram from A, B, C, D, to E, and place the front side seam next to the back side seam from F to D and G to E and continue copying the front part to H, I and J and connect J to G, as shown on the diagram. See that the brakes are filled in at the top at D to F and at the bottom at G to E. This makes the step-in effect in one-piece with all necessary seams allowed. 