Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/46

828

WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Back Part—Size 36

Lesson No. 421

In order to begin the combination chemise use the similar foundation outlines of the pajamas by making use of the 7 inches back depth from 1 to 2, 15½ inches waist length from 1 to 3 and rise measure from 3 to 4. According to this foundation draw lines across from 1 to 5, 2 to 6, 3 to 7 and 4 to E. Then measure additional 8 inches for the drawers effect from E to A and draw lines across from A to B. The space between 1 and 5 and 4 and E is 1-3 of size amounting to 12 inches the same as explained before.

To continue the combination effect for this back part measure from 4 to 10 and 10 to 9, 1-6 of hip measurement for each amounting to 3⅝ inches, or altogether, the space from 4 to 9 amounts to 1-3 of hip measurement amounting to 7½ inches. Square a line down from 9 to B and increase for more fullness at the bottom from B to C with 1 inch and connect C to 9. Increase with 1 inch from A to D and draw a straight line from D to 13 and from 13 curve up to 23 the same way as for the one-piece pajamas. The space between 22 and 23 is 1 inch. Remember that according to this instruction we will have the armhole 3 inches deep from 6 to 22 and, therefore, curve the armhole, as shown on the diagram, from 19 down to 23. Then finish the center back for more fullness by drawing a straight line from 1 down to 10 which is at the crutch, and curve from 9 up towards 20 for obtaining the ordinary back part for the combination chemise.

If back buttoning with fullness is desired note the following changes. Take half between 2 and 4 which is between breast and crutch lines making 11. From 11 draw a line out to 12 and 13 and measure from 20 to 12, 3 inches for gathering. In order to cut in the opening divide the space equally between 12 and 13 making 21 which is the place to cut in for the opening of back buttoning, as shown on the diagram. Then connect a line from 12 to 10 and curve from 12 down towards 9, as shown on the diagram, which will complete the back for back buttoning with gathering around the back part of the hip.

For cutting out the back part for this particular style begin to cut the back from the top from 1 to 20, from 20 to 21 down to F. Then continue cutting out from 20 to 12 towards 9 down to C and from C cross to D up towards 8 to 13 and 23. As a rule, this garment is to be cut with a low neck opening. Therefore, take half between 1 and 2 making H and take 3 inches from 18 to G and cut from H to G and from G to 19 which completes the back part for this garment with all seams allowed.

WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Front Part—Size 36

Lesson No. 422

To begin the front part for the combination chemise draw outlines on the same principle as for the back or exactly the same as for the front pajamas. From 1 to 2 is 7 inches back depth; 1 to 3, 15½ inches waist length and 3 to 4 is 18 inches rise. Then draw lines from 1 to 6, 2 to 7, 3 to 8 and 4 to 9 and continue the front part the same way as for the one-piece pajamas with the exception of making the armhole according to the deepness of 3 inches between 2 and 22 and make a curve from 1 to 22 for the front armhole. Then draw a line down from 9 to 91 and measure there 8 inches and draw a straight line across from 91 to 21 and extend from 4 to 20, 1 inch. Now draw a straight line from 22 against 3 down towards 20 and 21.

Now allow for button-stand 1 inch from 15 down towards 16 to 17 in the same manner as for the one-piece pajamas. If full length buttoning is wanted to the crutch continue the buttoning to 18. Then continue the curve of the crutch from 18 to 9 as usual.

As a low neck is wanted for the combination chemise measure from 14 to C, 3 inches and divide from 15 to 16 making D and curve from C to D for a low neck, as shown on the diagram. Otherwise, this front part of the combination chemise is completed with all necessary seams allowed. For cutting out follow the heavy lines of this diagram.