Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/44

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WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS Kimono Style, Back Part—Size 36

Lesson No. 420

To begin the one-piece pajamas use measurements according to the proportions of size 36 and use the foundation lines of the first lesson as follows: Draw a straight line from 1 to 4 and 1 to 5. Measure from 1 to 2, 7 inches back depth as for the first lesson, from 1 to 3 measure 15½ inches waist length and from 3 to 4 measure 18 inches rise length. Then draw all lines across from 1 to 5 top line; 2 to 6 breast line; 3 to 7 waist line and 4 to 8 crutch. Now measure from 1 to 5 and 4 to 8, 1-3 of 36 inches amounting to 12 inches and connect a line from 5 towards 8 down to 12 and measure 41 inches outside length from 7 to 12 and from 12 draw a line across to 11 which is the bottom line.

Now make the width of back. Take half between 2 and 6 on the breast line making 14. From 14 to 15 allow 1¼ inches. Measure the space between 2 and 15 and make the same space from 1 to 16 and connect a line from 15 to 16.

Now make the back neck. Measure from 1 to 17, 3 inches and raise up from 17 to 18, 1 inch and curve for a close neck from 1 to 18. Then draw out a line for the shoulder and kimono sleeve from 18 against 16 out towards 19 and 20. Now square a line down from 20 to 21. The space from 19 to 20 is 12 inches for a short kimono sleeve. Lower the space for a deep armhole from 6 to 22, 3 inches for a kimono armhole. From 2 to 23 make 1 inch in. Measure the space from the line below 5 to 22 which amounts to 9 inches and measure the same amount of 9 inches from 20 to 21 and connect 21 to 23 and make a curve from 23 towards 8 which is at the side line lost to the crutch line. Should we want a normal shoulder with armhole square a line from 19 down to 15 which will give the normal width of shoulder from 18 to 19. Should a low cut-out neck be desired take half of the shoulder width between 18 and 19 and also half the space at the center back between 1 and 2 and make a curve, as shown by the dotted line from the top shoulder to the center back.

To complete the lower part of the pajamas measure at the crutch line from 4 to 10, 1-6 of hip amounting to 3⅝ inches and connect a straight line up from 10 to 1 and square a line down from 10 to 11. Then add another 1-6 of hip measurement from 10 to 9 and curve from 9 to 11 and make the crutch curve from 9, as shown on the diagram, up towards the center back line which goes to 1. For more fullness at the side seam cut out draft according to the straight line from 8 to 12 and for a narrower bottom take off from 12 to 13, ½ inch and make 13 lost to 8 which will complete the back part of the one-piece pajamas, with all seams allowed.

For back buttoning with gathering for these pajamas see back part of combination chemise.