Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/42

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WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS Kimono Style, Front Part—Size 36

Lesson No. 419

To begin the front part of the one-piece pajamas continue partly with the outlines of the first lesson in the following manner. Draw a straight line from 1 to 6 and 1 to 5. Measure from 1 to 2, 7 inches back depth and 2 to 3, 15½ inches waist length. Then measure from 3 to 4, 18 inches rise and from 3 to 5, 41 inches outside length and draw a line across from 1 to 5 which is the top line, 2 to 7 breast line, 3 to 8 waist line and 4 to 9 crutch and 5 to 10 bottom line.

Now make the upper part of the pajamas by measuring from 2 to 11 and 1 to 12 1-6 of 36 inches amounting to 3 inches and the same amount should be measured from 12 to 13 and from 13 up to 14. Then draw a line for the front shoulder from 14 against 1 out to 23. In order to finish this line measure the back shoulder and sleeve from 18 to 20 and apply the same amount from 14 to 23. Then square a line from 23 down to 24 and lower the armhole from 2 to 22 with 3 inches and measure the space from 1 to 22 and apply the same amount from 23 to 24 which amounts to 10 inches and connect 22 to 24 which will complete the kimono sleeve for the front part.

To finish the front part measure from 13 to 15, 1-6 of size amounting to 3 inches and allow ½ inch for a seam. Then measure on the breast line from 11 to 16, ¼ of size amounting to 9 inches for size 36 and curve from 15 against 16 down to 17 and 18. Measure from 4 to 19 on the crutch line half of 43 inches hip amounting to 10¾ inches and draw a straight line up from 19 towards 18 to 17, 8, 7 to 6. 17 is half the space between 8 and 18.

Now finish the lower part of the pajamas. Measure from 19 to 9, 1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 3⅝ inches and make the same amount from 19 up to 18. Connect a line from 18 to 9 and take half between 18 and 9 making 21 and curve a ½ inch below 21 to 9 from 18, as shown on the diagram. Now take half between 9 and 19 making 20 and square a line down from 20 to 10 and make a curve from 9 to 10, as shown on the diagram. If a straight side seam is wanted use the straight line from 4 to 5. If a shapy effect is wanted take ½ inch off at 5 and follow the heavy line from 4 to 5.

For button-stand allow 1 inch which is to begin at the front neck at 15 and continue the same down to 17 which is about the proper length of opening for pajamas. At the same time, make the curve of the front neck as shown on the diagram. If more opening is wanted than the natural neck curve follow the trace line below the neck as shown on the front and back diagrams which is 3 inches cut out from the ordinary neck curve. This may be changed for more or less opening which, as a rule, is followed according to the style, from time to time. This completes the pajamas with all seams allowed.