Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/36

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WOMAN'S DRAWERS, FRONT PART—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 413

In order to begin the front part for woman's drawers use measurements specially designed for this purpose, which are as follows:

To begin to draft watch diagram on the opposite page. Draw a line from 1 to 4 and 1 to 3. Measure from 1 to 2, 18 inches rise. According to medium height the rise measurement is 12 inches. For drawers add 6 inches additional for a comfortable rise, making it 18 inches. Then measure from 1 to 3, 26 inches outside length which is taken at the side of the hip from the waist to the knee. Now draw a line across from 2 to 8 and 3 to 15. Measure from 2 to 7, half of 43 inches hip amounting to 10¾ inches and from 7 to 8 measure 1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 3⅝ inches.

To continue square a line up from 7 to 4 and measure from 4 to 10, ¼ of 25 inches hip measurement amounting to 6¼ inches and from 10 to 11 allow 2 inches. From 11 to 12 raise up ¾ of an inch and connect a line from 12 to 4. Now measure the space from 7 to 8 and place the same amount from 7 to 9 and connect a line from 9 to 8. Curve from 9 to 8 with a ½-inch deepness, as shown on the diagram, which completes the crutch of the front part.

Now finish the inside seam of the front. Draw a straight line from 4 against 8 and draw a line down from 8 to 15 to the bottom line of the front, which will in this way complete the inside seam with all the fullness needed at the bottom. Now finish the outside seam and hip of the front. Measure from 2 to 13 at the hip line 2½ inches and make a curve with a curved ruler from the waist point from 12 against 13 and continue straight down to the bottom to 14, which will complete the front part. See the next lesson for the back part.

WOMAN'S DRAWERS, BACK PART—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 414

To begin the back part for drawers make the draft of the complete front part as shown on the opposite page  below and then continue with the back as follows: Divide the space of the front from 2 to 8 on the hip line, making 16 and draw a straight line up from 16 towards 19 up to 18. Measure from 19 to 18, 3 inches and draw a line up to 19 against 20 to 21. Measure from 19 to 20, ¼ of waist measurement amounting to 6¼ inches according to 25 inches waist. From 20 to 21 add 3 inches for seams and fullness and connect a line from 21 to 18. Then allow from 13 to 22 and 14 to 23, 3 inches and connect with a curved line from 21 to 22 and 23, which will finish the outside seam of the back part.

Now connect a line for the back curve part from 18 to 9 and continue the curve according to the front crutch from 9 towards 8 out to 5. From 8 to 5 is 1-12 of hip measurement and 1 inch allowed for seams amounting altogether to 2¾ inches. Draw a line from 4 against 5 down to 6, which will complete the inside seam of the back part which is connectable to the inside seam of the front to 8 and 15, and which will complete the entire draft of front and back for woman's drawers.

In order to cut out the front and back parts of this draft trace off each one according to the heavy lines as follows: To begin to cut or trace the front begin from 12 to 13 and 14 across to 15 up to 8 and from 8 to 9 up to 4 and connect 4 to 12. This will cut out the front. To cut out the back part begin from 21 to 22 and 23 and from 23 across to 6 up to 5; from 5 towards 8 and 9 up to 18 and from 18 connect to 21. In this way the front and back will be entirely cut out, including the necessary seams.

If buttoning is wanted at the side take half of the rise length between 20 and 22 at the back part and between 12 and 13 at the front part, which measures full 18 inches and half of this amount is to be left open from the waist down, which will amount to 9 inches for buttoning if side buttoning is desired. If front or back buttoning is desired make the opening from the waist line 12 inches down, which will be sufficient and convenient space for buttoning.