Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/34

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WOMAN'S BLOOMERS OR KNICKERBOCKERS, FRONT PART—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 411

In order to begin the front part of the bloomers use measurements specially designed for this purpose which are partly explained in the front pages and measurements for this are as follows:

To begin to draft watch the diagram on the opposite page and draw lines from A to R and A to C. Measure from A to B, 12 inches for rise measurement and from A to C, 26 inches outside length and draw a line across from B to I and C to T. Call the line from A to R waist line; from B to I hipline and from C to T knee line. Then continue drafting according to the hip measurement and measure from B to H half of hip measurement amounting to 10¾ inches. From H to I measure 1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 3⅝ inches and draw a line up from H to R. Measure from R to O ¼ of waist measurement amounting to 6¼ inches, according to 25 inches waist. From O to P allow 2 inches for seams and fullness. From P to Q raise up a ½ inch and from R to X lower with a ½ inch and connect a line from X to Q. Allow from B to U, 1½ inches for fullness and make a side hip curve from Q to U down to the knee line to C, as shown on the diagram.

Finish the front curve part by measuring the space from H to I and raise the same amount from H to J. Then connect a line from J to I and divide equally, making M and from M to N mark ½ inch and curve from J, N to I. In order to finish properly the inside seam take ½ inch from I to V and draw a straight line down from V to T and curve as shown on the diagram from I to T, which will complete the entire front part of the bloomers. See next lesson for the back part.

WOMAN'S BLOOMERS OR KNICKERBOCKERS, BACK PART—SIZE 36

Lesson No 412

To begin the back part of the bloomers have the complete draft or pattern of the front part, as shown on the previous diagram on the opposite page , and then continue as follows:

To begin to draft draw the waist line out from R and L to A and P and measure from L to A ¼ of waist measurement amounting to 6¼ inches, according to 25 inches waist and from A to P allow 3 inches for fullness or darts. Then allow from B to U also 3 inches for fullness and at the bottom from 1 to 2 allow 1½ inches.

Now finish the back crutch part. Raise the back from L to R with 3 inches and connect a straight line from R to J, where the curve of the front crutch begins and curve from K to J and I out to M. From I to H is 1-12 of hip measurement and from H to M is 1 inch allowed for seams which altogether amounts to from I and M, 2⅞ inches allowed for the under part. Then allow from 3 to 4, 1½ inches for seams and fullness. This will complete the back part of the bloomers with gathers around the waist and knee.

If a fitted waist is wanted make a dart on top of the back part as shown as follows: Divide from P to R, making O and draw a line down from O to T, which is 4½ inches. Take out from each side of O to V and W, 1 inch and make curves from V to T and W to T. This will complete the bloomers with all seams allowed.

If buttoning is wanted for bloomers at the front part make the opening for such buttoning at the front from R to J. If buttoning is wanted at the side make the opening as described at the back side seam from P to U. If back-buttoning is wanted make the opening at the back from K to J. According to this method convenient opening for buttoning will be obtained.