Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/32

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WOMAN'S PRINCESS SLIP—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 410

To begin the princess slip draw the usual foundation lines. Measure the hip line from C to D, 6 inches and cross a line from D to E. Then measure the waist line which is from C to 15, 28 inches which will make a short length of skirt to which an additional bottom ripple of 12 inches may be connected. If a full length skit effect is wanted it shall be 40 inches made between C and 15. Cross a line from 15 to 13 for the bottom line. Measure from C to 12, 2 inches and from D to 11, 1½ inches and connect a line from 12 up to A and from 12 against 11 down to 15. Allow ¾ of an inch to the shoulder from M to N preparing for the seam which crosses the shoulder half way from L to N making 26. Then measure from 12 to 16, 1/6 of size amounting to 3 inches for size 36 and from 11 to 18, 4 inches and draw a line from 16 to 26 and 16 towards 18 down to 21. Take out from 16 to 19, ¾ of an inch and from 18 to 17 add ¾ of an inch. Connect a straight line from 19 towards 17 down to 20 and from 19 towards 17 down to 20 and from 19 make a curved line up to 26 to meet the straight line on the breast line.

Now take out at the side seam from G to 9 and E to 5, ¾ of an inch and on the waist line from 8 to 10, ½ inch and connect from 9 to 10 and from 10 against E down to 25 which will complete the side seam of the back part.

To begin the front part take out ½ inch from 4 to 3 on the waist line and connect with a line from 3 up to G and 3 against 5 down to 22. Then divide the chest between F and Y making X on the breast line. Measure the space between Y and X which is about 4½ inches for size 36 and measure the same amount with ¼ of an inch added which amounts to 4½ inches from 7 to 30 on the waist line and draw a straight line from X towards 30 down to 29 which will make the dart of the front. Note that the space between 6 and 7 is ¾ of an inch and square a straight line from Y up to 23 and from Y to 7 down to 14. From 13 to 14 is 1 inch.

Now complete the dart. Divide the space between X and 30 for the height of bust making 28. Divide the front shoulder between U and W making 27. Then allow 3/8 of an inch to each side of 36 and 37. Connect a line from 36 to 28 and draw a straight line from 37 towards 38 with the line parallel which is drawn from 36 to 28 and fill in the brake with a curve from 36 towards 28 to 30. Now curve the inner part of the front which has the most part of the bust from 37 towards 38 down to 28 and 31. Draw a straight line from 30 to 32 which will complete the dart at the front which will bring the proper bust effect.

To make the proper opening for the princess slip raise up from Y to 23, 2 inches and square a line from 23 to 24 amounting to 4 inches and draw a straight line up towards 37 as shown by the dotted line. If a round opening is wanted follow the dotted curved line from 27 to 23. The same space may be used at the back by measuring from L to AB as the space measures from W to 37. Then curve as shown by the dotted lines from AB to AC. AC is half the space between A and B at the center back. Note that this garment is cut with all necessary seams allowed, and is cut with a center seam in back which is proper for this kind of fitting.