Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/26

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WOMAN'S ENVELOPE CHEMISE—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 407

In order to begin the envelope chemise draw the upper Foundation lines is explained in the first two lessons as far as the bust line which is on the opposite diagram finished to the front edge at 9 and square a straight line down from 9 towards 10, 11 and 12 and continue as follows: Measure from 3 to 4, 6 inches for hip line and cross a line from 4 to 11. Now measure 36 inches from 1 to 5 which is the normal length for a chemise and draw a line across from 5 to 12. Then lengthen the center back line from 5 to 6 with ¼ of 36 inches amounting to 9 inches and square a short line of about 3 inches out from 6 towards 7. Now make the center back; measure in at the center back and waist line from 3 to 35, ¾ of an inch and draw a straight line up from 35 to 1 and from 35 against 4 down to 7. which will complete the proper shape of an envelope chemise.

Now prepare the armhole. Divide equally the space of the armhole between 17 and 22 making 27 and draw a straight line down from 27 towards 28 to 29. Take out at the waist line from each side of 28 to 30 and 31, ½ inch each and extend at each side of 29 at the hip line to 14 and 32 also a ½ inch. Then connect lines from 27 to 30 and from 30 against 14 down to 33 which will complete the side seam of the back. Draw a line from 27 to 31 down against 32 to 34 which will complete the side seam of the front. Shorten each side seam at 33 and 34 about ¾ of an inch each and connect 33 with a similar curve, as shown on the diagram, to 6 which will complete the bottom of the back part.

To finish the front measure from 12 to 36 the same space as for the bottom of the back from 6 to 7 which is 3 inches and then raise up from 36 to 37, 1 inch, and connect 37 to 34 which will complete the bottom part of this envelope chemise. Now finish the armhole lower with 1 inch from 27 to 38 and curve the back armhole from 21 to 38 and the front armhole from 25 to 38.

Now make the opening cut-out for normal use as follows: Raise up at the center back at the breast line from 2 to X, 1 inch, and measure the shoulder strip at the back from 21 to 39, 2 inches, and curve as shown on the diagram from 39 to X. Measure the front shoulder strip from 25 to 40 and curve from 40 towards 26 to 9. This will complete the envelope chemise with all necessary seams allowed, for size 36, or which may be followed up to any other size according to the table of proportions given in the front pages.