Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/22

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WOMAN'S CAMISOLE—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 405

To produce the camisole systematically and practically which may save a great deal of material and labor make use of the first 2 foundations up to the bust which is shown on the opposite diagram from 2 to 22. When the line of the front edge is drawn from 19 against 22 down to 25 measure the space at the bottom of the front from 24 to 25 and extend the same amount at the breast line from 22 to 26 and connect a line from 26 to 25. Note that the lengthening of waist at the bottom between 23 and 24 is 1 inch.

To finish the bottom entirely simply connect a straight line from the bottom of the center back from 3 against 24 out to 25 and curve up, as shown on the diagram, about ¼ of an inch at 25 to give a trifle roundness at the bottom of the front when the garment is connected. Now note the heavy line at the breast line including the bottom, center back and center front which clearly shows that in order to make the camisole in one piece, all we need is the space between breast and waist line including all the fullness at the center back and the special allowance which is made at the front between 22 and 26 lost to 25.

To complete this one-piece camisole foundation allow 1 inch for button-stand from 26 down to 25 in the same manner as shown for the brassiere. Should it be necessary to attach upper yoke parts which, as a rule, is a style, follow the suggestion given according to the trace line for a V yoke effect. Divide each shoulder at the front and back, for instance, the back shoulder divide between 11 and 12 making 27 and follow according to the dotted line from 27 to 2 and 27 to 8. The front shoulder divide between 17 and 30 making 28 and draw a dotted line from 28 to 14 and 28 to 16. Should we want a shoulder strip, which may be made of ribbon or lace, follow the shoulder and armhole lines, which is about 1½ inches in width which is shown at the back from 12 to 9 which is followed parallel according to the trace line down to the breast line. For the front also follow the front armhole line according to the same width which is from 30 to 31 parallel down to the breast line as illustrated by the dotted lines.

It should therefore be understood that the proper adding is a matter of taste and style and the lower part is the original foundation of the camisole as described before with all the necessary seams allowed.