Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/20

802

WOMAN'S BRASSIERE—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 404

In order to make the brassiere prepare the usual foundation lines and divide the side seams as explained for the tight-fitting corset cover. Prepare the dart in front in the same manner and then act as follows: As this garment is to be strictly tight-fitting divide the bottom of the back from D to 4 making 9 and from 9 to 19 take out a ½ inch. Divide equally the back shoulder from L to M making 10 and connect 10 to 19. Connect with a trifle curved line 9 lost to the breast line which will, in this manner, produce the close fitting back for the brassiere.

To make the front part divide the front shoulder from O to U making 11 and connect 11 to 1, which is at the height of dart, with a straight line. In order to get the proper close-fitting bust effect begin to curve on the straight line from about the breast line lost to the waist line to 3. Therefore, it should be understood that the straight line continues for the outside part of the front to 2. To better understand this it is to begin at 11 passing 15 down to 2. It should be understood that this lesson is followed according to the lesson before this.

The opening or cut-out around the neck is built on the same principle as for the lesson before this. Divide the back depth at the center back from A to B making 12; draw a line from 12 across to 13 which connects with the French seam from 13 up to 10. If a round effect is wanted follow the dotted line from 10 to 12. To make the front opening or cut-out divide the space at the front edge from W to R making 14 and draw a line across to 15. For a square opening follow from 15 to 11. Should a round opening be wanted follow the dotted line from 11 to 14.

To allow for button-stand in front allow 1 inch all the way through the edge of the front from 14 to XX, shown by the dotted lines. To cut out this pattern remember that this pattern is cut out on the same principle as the corset cover or any other garment with the exception that there is positively no need for a seam at the center back. Therefore, deduct 3/8 of an inch for a seam from 12 to D. Note that the small dart which is between 9 and 19 lost to the breast line is to be taken out. When the pattern is cut out we are to allow seams all the way through from 9 and 19 up to 10 and 3/8 of an inch is the proper amount to allow at each side. Also note that the front dart between 2 and 3 lost all the way through up to the breast line is to be thrown out and 3/8 of an inch for seams are to be allowed from 11 all the way down to 2 and 3 at both parts of the pattern which are the inner and the outside parts of the front.