Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/16

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WOMAN'S CORSET COVER—SIZE 36

Lesson No. 402

In order to complete this lesson into a corset cover draw all foundation lines according to the first and second lessons and continue as follows:

To begin divide the space equally of the entire armhole between H and N making 4 and draw a line down from 4 to 2. Then take out from each side of 2. ¼ of an inch and from each side of 4 which is at the breast line ½ inch to E and 5, and connect 5 to 2 with a curved line which will make the side seam of the back and connect E to 2 with a curved line which makes the side seam of the front. According to this instruction we obtain a full bottom for this corset cover: but should it be necessary to make a more close fitted waist, take out at the waist line from each side of 2 to 1 and 3, 1 inch and connect 1 to 5 and 3 to E.

Now make the opening for neck by dividing at the center back from A to B making 13 which will make the deepness of the back according to half of the back depth making it 3½ inches deep. Then take the shoulder width from L to 12 which is 2 inches and curve from 12 to 13. Now measure the same 2 inches from U to 11 and divide equally the space at the front edge from S to W making 8. Extend from 8 to 10, 3 inches for fullness and curve from 11 towards 8 out to 10. Now connect 10 to 7 with a straight line which makes the edge of the front. From X to Z allow 1 inch and connect a line from 3 towards Z to 6 and curve up from Z to 7 with a ½ inch, as shown on the diagram. Then allow 1 inch for button-stand to the edge of the front from 10 down to 7. Now make all curves as shown on the diagram. Allow at 1 and 3, ½ inch at the bottom of waist. Curve the armhole at the back from L to 5 and at the front from U to E.

To cut out the corset cover follow the heavy lines of front and back. If a very full back is wanted follow the dotted line from 13 to C and then cut on the heavy marks from 13 to 12 to L and 5 down to 1 and from 1 to M and C. The front is cut out from U towards E down to 3 and from 3 out to Z and 7 and then from 11 towards 8 to 10 and from 10 down to 7. If a much lower front opening is wanted follow the trace line shown at 9 at the front edge between 8 and W and curve in the same manner as the original line at 8 with the exception that this is about 2 inches below the first opening curve. Note that when this pattern is cut out according to these instructions the pattern has seams allowed and is ready to be cut from any kind of material. This pattern has normal seams of ⅜ of an inch for a half seam or ¾ of an inch for a full seam.

To make the ripple for the corset cover watch the diagram below the corset cover on the opposite page, which illustrates the same. Draw a straight line from 1 to 2 measuring half of the waist measurement which is about 12½ inches for 25 inches waist. Divide equally between 1 and 2 making 3 and measure from 3 to 4. 3 inches and from 4 to 5 also 3 inches. Then curve from 2 towards 4 up to 1 and draw a line from 1 to 5 and 2 to 5. Now square a line out from 1 to 6 and 2 to 7 and measure from 2 to 7, 3 inches and 1 to 6 also 3 inches and make a curve from 7 towards 5 to 6 which will complete the ripple in a 3-inch width with all seams allowed.