Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/98

92 SHORT TWO-PIECE CAPE

LESSON NO. 34

This cape is drafted on the usual foundation lines, and measurements are as follows: Size 36 inches, bust 39 inches, depth 7 inches, waist length 15½ inches, full length 22 inches.

To begin draw the outlines as usual. From A to B is the depth; from A to C is the natural waist length; from C to D is 6 inches, hip length. Now cross all lines from B to C and from D to E is ⅔ of size or 12 inches. H is half of G and B; from H to I is 1¼ inches. Now raise a line from I to J. From A to K is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches, K to L is 1 inch, G to F is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches and draw a line up to Q. From Q to P and P to O is also $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches; from P to R is $1/undefined$, of size and from R to S is ⅜ of an inch with a seam allowed; from S to 4 is ¾ of an inch up for buttoning up neck.

Measure the bust as usual from T to X and allow 3 inches for seams from X to W Now cross a line down from V to pass Z at the waist line down to the bottom or hip line. Allow from Z to 1, ¾ of an inch on the waist line and curve from 4, V and 1 down to 2 and allow a button stand of 1½ inches from 4 to 5, from V to W and from 2 to 3 and curve the line parallel according to the inside line. The buttoning hook at the neck between 4 and 5 amounts to 1½ inches and 5 is about 1½ inch higher than 4.

In making the shoulder curves for the front and back begin the back first, curving with the round stick from L passing J to Z, which meets the waist line at the front. Take a certain length from down to the bottom line, which is showing on the diagram at the hip line at D and sweep by L from D to the curve line, which makes N. Now measure the space from L to N in order to prepare this measurement for the front part. To begin the front curve of the shoulder seam, curve from O passing U with a curved line of the round stick to meet Y, which is the waist line at the back and the incline of the center back and apply the measurement of the back from L to N to O and M and curve or sweep from M by O to meet the front bottom line at 2 and 3 and complete all curves at the back and front neck. Otherwise, this is complete.