Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/96

90 COLLARLESS COAT WITH DEEP ARMHOLE AND SLEEVE

LESSON NO. 33.

In order to begin a collarless coat, it is to be understood that we are to make the regular foundation as usual and then allow 1 inch for a stand instead of having a collar attached to this garment, which would form a stand from the collar. To prepare the same watch the diagram on the opposite page and see the regular neck curve, which is from A to L and finish to the back shoulder to M and the front neck and shoulder is from O to Z and from O to U. To make the self-raising stand, which is called collarless, we allow from .- to 4, 1 inch and from L to 6 also 1 inch and make the lost curve from 6 towards the shoulder lost at M. This completes the self-raising stand or collarless.

The front self-raising neck, which makes it collarless. make the shoulder curve from H to 7 and between O and 7 is 1 inch allowed the same as the back and from 7 make a lost curve to 9, which is the edge of the front. It shall be understood that the collarless garment, as a rule, is buttoned up without any out-lay of lapel and therefore most of the time there is a flat collar placed on such garment and remember the allowance of the back and front the self-raising stand should always be alike whatever amount may be allowed.

The deep armole with the one-piece sleeve draft is also shown on the opposite page. To begin the same, divide the armhole from the center seam, as shown on the diagram. G is the center between I and F. Both sides of 5 as usual take out ¾ inches. Now make the deep armhole from about 2 inches, which is between G and Y and 3 and W. Then cross a line out to FF and EE and curve the armhole from MM to W and from U to Y. This completes the deep armhole.

To prepare the one-piece sleeve for this deep armhole, measure from F to PP and BB to DD ¼ of size amounting to 4½ inches for size 36;also measure the same from I to AA and AA to CC. Then connect CC to DD with a line and curve immediately the top curve of sleeve from CC to W and DD to Y. Now measure the lengths for the sleeve which is to be 18 inches for the inside sleeve length from AA to II and from BB to HH and cross a line from II to HH and measure the space between II and HH which is about 17 inches and it is to be understood that this amount will be too wide for the width of sleeve. Suppose we need a 14 inch cuff, we measure from II to KK, 7 inches and from HH to JJ also 7 inches and make the curve line for the inside sleeve seam from KK to W and JJ to Y. Now finish up the bottom of the sleeve by allowing feom II to LL and HH to MM ¾ of an inch and curve from MM to JJ and LL to KK. This completes the entire draft of the sleeve.

To cut and make the sleeve in one piece, we trace cut the front and back sleeve and place it together from CC to LL and DD to MM. It will then make a one-piece sleeve prepared for the deep armhole. The same method can be used for regular armholes