Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/94

88 RAGLAN SLEEVE ON TOP OF ARMHOLE

LESSON NO. 32

In producing the raglan sleeve on top of its armhole, it is no doubt first necessary to prepare the foundation of a box coat, which is given in the front pages of this work and in order to commence you may understand that it does not make any difference if the armhole is the regular deep armhole or a direct deep armhole. The method of producing a raglan sleeve on top of armhole is about the same. The difference is that the curve of the sleeve will follow according to the deepness of the armhole of whatever is needed from time to time. You may therefore well understand that in order to begin to prepare the box coat foundation continue as follows:

To begin measure from I to AA and from F to BB ¼ of the size amounting to 4½ inches for size 36 and draw a square line up from BB to FF and from AA to EE. Now draw a line down from BB to CC and from AA to DD. Then connect a line from EE to FF which makes the highest point of the top sleeve. From EE to II and from FF to JJ is ¾ of an inch which curves the sleeve at the shoulder point to the neck and then increase from. BB to V 1 inch and at AA for the extending curve of the back sleeve where the dotted line is showing increase ½ inch. Now make the curve at the back part sleeve from II, AA down to D and the front sleeve curve from JJ to V down to CC From CC to H and from DD to GG is 1 inch; both to be connected with around curve to QQ. This completes the center seam of the top sleeve.

Now let us continue in preparing the armhole part of the top sleeves. From II to KK and from JJ to O is ¾ of an inch and in order to finish the back curve first measure the space between M to 6 and apply the same amount from 6 to 2 and then make a curve from KK to 2 down to RR. Remember that RR is about the center space between I to G. The front curve of the sleeve is planted by drawing a straight line from the front armhole from 30 to O. Take half of same which makes MM. From MM to NN is 1 inch. New curve from O to NN down to 30 which finishes at OO. QQ is the center space between G and 30. To make the under sleeve draw a straight line down from OO to QQ and from RR to SS and take out at the waist line at both sides of PP to WW to 31, ½ inches and this will finish the inside seam at the under sleeve. To complete the outside seem of the under sleeve allow from TT to VV 1 inch and curve from RR to VV down to SS, which makes the elbow line for the under sleeve. To finish the same elbow line for the back part top sleeve allow from TT to UU 1 inch and curve from 4 to UU down to SS.

To finish the inside seam to the front top sleeve curve from OO to 31 down to QQ and this completes the entire sleeve to be drafted on top of the armhole and remember that this sleeve draft has all seams allowed. In order to know which is which on the sleeve draft, note that the back top sleeve is to be noted across the waist line from S to UU. The front top sleeve is from YY to 31 and the under sleeve is to be noted or traced from VV to WW. This completes the raglan sleeve draft or top of armhole. If a deep armhole is wanted make only changes on the armhole and follow the same instructions for the sleeve draft with the changes of the deepness of the armhole.