Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/92

86 ONE-PIECE BALMAACAN SLEEVE

LESSON NO. 31.

To obtain a one-piece balmaacan sleeve, it is necessary to make a draft of a balmaacan coat and prepare all curves that are necessary and trace off the sleeve of each part, front and back. Then mark out each one on a separate sheet of paper to be able to unite the 2 sleeves of front and back in one piece. Before going any further, it should be also understood that the balmaacan sleeve can also be made up in two pieces, which means a seam on the shoulder and this is merely a production of style or taste.

To begin the one-piece balmaacan sleeve, first mark out the back part on a separate sheet of paper as follows: From 18, 62, 61, 56, 39, 58, 28, 19, to 18. Note that from 18 to 19 is the width of shoulder space, which is about 6 inches for size 36 and when this is understood apply the shoulder of the front sleeve to 18 and 19, which makes from 24 to 14 the proper connection. Then you will note that the amount of about 1½ to 2 inches will be lapped over from 28 to 43 by the front sleeve. This amount is not done directly, but comes indirectly when placing the 2 sleeves together at the shoulder between 18 and 24 and 19 and 14. Now follow and mark out the entire front and draw lines from 24, 63, 64, 57, 42, to 59 and 43 up to 14 and 24. When the 2 sleeves of front and back are now marked out as far as this, note the change of width in cuff, if desired.

The width of sleeve at the bottom is now changeable to any width desired. The original width of this one is between 39 and 40 amounting to 18 inches and if we desire to have some amount less which is about 15 inches instead of 18 inches, we shall deduct 3 inches of this amount and therefore, in such case, deduct 1½, inches from 39 to 58 and 1½ inches from 42 to 59 and then make a direct curve from 58 to 59, which will make 15 inches the width of bottom sleeve or the cuff part of the sleeve. Draw a line from 58 to 56 and 59 to 57 and curve at 56 and 57 as shown on the diagram, which will fit correctly the connection of the armhole at the front and back. Note that seams are allowed at both shoulder parts at front and back from 18, 62, 61 to 56 and towards the front from 24, 63 to 64 and 57.

The notches at the back, which will show at 62 and 61 indicates that one notch at 62 and two notches at 61 will meet to the back as shown on the first diagram and two notches at 62 and 3 notches at 64 will indicate that this belongs to the front of this coat or cape, which will also be noticeably marked at the first diagram or the original draft of the same. Should you desire to have this sleeve longer, you should first increase the length 39 and 42 and then use the same action regarding taking a particular width of cuff as shown by the curves between 58 and 59. The exact instruction may be used in all such cases. This diagram is otherwise allowed with all seams as per the above instructions