Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/90

84 KIMONO OR BALMAACAN COAT.

LESSON NO. 30.

To begin this draft make foundations as usual and draft immediately a box coat, with one exception that the side seam shall be equally divided in the center space of the armhole as this garment is a kimono style, Note carefully the entire style of this diagram before going any further. This coat is drafted entirely loose which will serve as a kimono coat, cape, balmaacan coat or cape.

To begin, divide the space of the entire armhole, which is between 15 and 21, which makes 31, and take out both sides of 30 to 12 and 31, half inches each side and then draw a line down from 31 against 13 which is the regular side line reaching on the hip line. Now draw a line down to the bottom to 32 which will complete the foundation of the back.

To continue with the front, measure on the hip line from 29 to 33, two thirds of hip measurement which will amount to 14 inches for 42 hip. and from 33 to 34 allow 1 inch for fullness and then draw a line from 12 against 34 down to 35 which will make the side seam for the front to be sewed to the back. After both sides of the front and back are complete, finish the bottom as usual, from 32 to 44 is 1 inch up and then curve from 44 to 5. Now measure from 31 to 44 and apply the same amount from 12 to 45 and then allow at the front bottom from 10 to 55. 1½ inches and draw curved lines from 45 to 55.

Now begin the kimono effect in back, divide between 1 2 and 36 which makes 38 and draw a line across to 40 where the connections of the both side seams are. As a rule, first begin the back part for a kimono style. From 19 to 37 at the back shoulder, deduct a seam and draw a line from 18 against 37 out to 28, a line which may be a trifle curved. Now measure from 37 to 28 about 16 inches which will give about ¾ length sleeve and square a line down from 28 to 39. This line must be square by the first line. You will note that this line from 37 to 28 rests on the breast line, but this rule must not be followed exactly. Now in order to finish the sleeve, measure from 4th parallel to the top line in order to get that particular width and apply the same from 28 to 33 and then connect a line from 39 to 40 and make a curve as shown on the diagram at 56 which will make the under-arm of that sleeve curved, which brings the result of better fitting; this completes the back part.

The front part kimono sleeve is followed partly according to the back sleeve. To begin, draw a line from 40 against 3 which is the action of the back sleeve, as you note that the back sleeve at 39 also rests on the waist line. Now measure the under part of the back sleeve from 39 to 40 which is about 10 inches and apply the same amount at the front part of the under sleeve length from 41 to 42. Measure the space between 3 7 and 28 of the back sleeve and apply the same amount from 41 to 43 and note that in order to finish the width of sleeve of the front from 42 to 43. you first measure the space between 28 and 29 of the back sleeve which amounts to 9 inches and allow 1 inch at the front part from 42 to 43 which makes 10 inches and connect with a straight line from 42 to 41 and curve to 41 a trifle as shown on the diagram and then curve the front armhole at 5 7 the same as the back part is curved at 56.

To begin the balmaacan style on this kimono coat, be careful to obtain the same curve as shown on the diagram. To begin allow from 15 to 58, ½ inch and from 21 to 59. 1 inch and begin to make a curve from this style at the back part first from 18 to 58 down to 40 over to 56 lapping over somewhat towards the front. The front curve is made from 24 to 22. 59 to 40 lapping over to the back at 57. You will note that these points at 56 and 57 are making some small allowance when the sleeves are separated from the front and back, it will give an allowance which gives a sufficient amount for a well raising armhole. When cutting out the back, follow the same curve as for the sleeve from 18 to 58, 40 to 56. The front part follow on the same style with one exception, we begin the front from 24 down to 59 and 60 down to 57. You will note that at 60 a ½ inch is taken out for better fitting around the bust, and note carefully that the points at the under-arm, both sides of O to 56 and 57 are used for both sleeves and front and back, which gives sufficient fullness for a well raising sleeve. Do not forget when cutting out, a seam is to be allowed on the sleeve, and front and back. The collar of this coat is drafted similar to others with the exception that this collar is a convertible with a short lapping out when not buttoned up.