Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/88

82 LONG HALF FITTED OR HIPLESS COAT.

LESSON NO. 29. To begin to draft, use the regular foundation line and measure for the depth, waist and hip. The full length of this garment is about 42 inches. The width of back for this garment is the same as usual, ¾ of an inch is allowed for seams, from M to N is ¾ of an inch allowed; the space at waist line for the back from 12 to 16 is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches for size 36 and 1 more inch at the hip line, which makes it 4 inches from 11 to 18; between 16 and 19 is ½ of an inch; from 18 to 17 increase for the side body a ½ inch. Now draw straight lines down from 16 against 18 down to 21 and from 19 to 17 down to 20. At the under-arm from G to N and E to 5 is ¾ of an inch towards the back, now cross a line from 9 against 8 down to 5 and take out ½ inch from 8 to 10 and from 4 to 3, then draw a line from 9 to 10 against E down to 25, this is the side seam at the back.

To begin the side seam for the front, draw a line from G to 3 against 5 down to 22, this will complete the two side seams for the front and back. The french seams crossing the shoulders are divided in half, which is at the back from L to N and which makes 26; at the front shoulder divide from O to U. which is the regular width of shoulder built according to this back space or L to M. The center of the front shoulder is 27: from 27 to 37 is ⅜ of an inch and from 27 to 36 is also ⅜ of an inch this amounts to ¾ of an inch allowed for the french seams which we allowed at the back from M to N.

Now continue the front part, divide the front for the dart line from F to Y which makes X. Allow on the waistline from 6 to 7, ¾ of an inch and take the space from Y to X at the waist line from 7 to 30, draw a straight line down from X to 30 down to 29. Now divide from 30 to X which makes 28; connect 36 to 28 and draw parallel lines from 37 and 38 and curve from 38 to 28 as shown on the diagram to 31 down with a straight line to 32. The space between 30 and 31 all the way down to 29 and 32 is ¾ of an inch.

The button stand for this garment which is from Y to Z is 2½ inches as a single breasted top coat, the opening begins half between breast and waist lines, the collar begins at the stand line which is from O to S, 1 inch. Draw a line from the opening at 2 up to S and W. From S to W is one sixth of size which is 3 inches and allow ½ inch more for a seam. From W to 23 is 1 inch for collar stand. From W to 24 is 3 inches width of the collar and curve parallel to V lost to 2, In order to get a top collar for this garment, follow the broken line from 23 to XX.

The pocket for this garment is cut bias, start 1 inch below the waist line from 31 to 34, the inside edge of the pocket is 3 5 which is about 1 5 inches for the edge of the side body of the front and about half way of the hip space the opening of such pockets is about 5 or 6 inches.

The bottom for all long coats shall be finished round. In order to do so, measure the space always between the waist down to bottom line from G to 15 which is about 25 inches. Connect this 25 inch to each seam, this is from 16 to 21, from 19 to 20, from 10 to 25. from 3 to 22 and in front from 13 to 14 is 1½ inches. Now curve the bottom as shown on the diagram and all seams are allowed.