Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/86

80 RAGLAN TOP COAT

LESSON NO. 28.

This garment is drafted on the same principles as the long box coat. To begin draw all lines as usual, N is the full length of coat, from B to G is ⅔ of size or 12 inches for size 36. H is half of B and G, from H to I is 1¼ inches, draw a line up from I to J and draw a line from the shoulders as usual. Now divide 1 to G which makes 4, now draw a line from 4 to E down to the bottom line 11. this makes the side seam of the back. Now measure from 4 to 5. 1½ inches, now complete the front shoulder as usual.

Now measure the bust and allow 3 inches for seams to, from X draw a straight line down to 1, this is the hip line, now measure from 1 to R the hip measure and from R to 3 is 2 inches, now cross a line from 5 to 3 down to 13.

The bottom. In order to finish the bottom, take from 11 to 12, 1 inch up and curve to N. Now measure from 4 to 1 2 and make the same from 5 to 13; now allow the button stand, from X to Y and from 7 to 8 is 2½ inches, now draw a line in front from Y to 8 and 14 to 15 and connect 15 to 13 with a curved line.

The lapel of this garment is the same as others, from W to Z is 3 inches, from Z to 10 is 2½ inches. This space can be changed to any width wanted, now connect 10 to Y with a curve. The trace of the collar and lapel is showing the effect when the collar and lapel is finished.

Now begin the raglan shoulders, first start at the back from I, to 4 draw a line, now place a square on the line halfway to meet the shoulder point from 2 to M: now divide 2 and M which makes 6, now curve as shown on the diagram, from L to 6 down to the armhole at 4. Now begin the front shoulders, from O to 23 is ¾ of an inch, now draw a line from 23 to the armhole notch at 30. Now square a line across from 24 to meet the shoulder point at U, divide from 24 to U which makes 25. Now curve from 23 to 25 and 30: this completes the raglan shoulder at the front and back.

The pockets for this coat are as usual; this top pocket is marked for a flap instead of a veil as shown on the diagram. The side pocket is marked from the regular pocket. In order to begin the side pocket, draw a straight line down from F to 32 which reaches the hip line and 31 is the waist line: divide from 31 to 32 which makes 16 where the regular pocket takes place. Measure from 31 to 26. 1½ inches, also from 32 to 27, 1½ inches draw a line from 26 to make place for the side pocket, now mark the veil as shown on the diagram.