Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/84

76 ONE PIECE BOX COAT

LESSON NO. 27.

The one piece coat is no doubt known as a box effect coat. It is therefore necessary to know that in order to obtain a one piece coat, we need to cut out the front and back of a box coat draft, in order that we may obtain or prepare a one piece coat and if however, a one piece coat is needed, not only in a long garment, but also in a short garment, you may also be able to prepare the same for the Eton jacket if such a short garment is wanted; or it may be also prepared of a short box coat for a short jacket. It is positively necessary to know that this style of coat consists of front and back, and then prepare in one piece which cannot be anything else but a loose fitting garment.

In order to obtain a pattern for a one piece garment such as a two piece, cut out both parts of the garment which consists of front and back and mark out the back first as follows: Place the center of the back part to the edge of paper from 1 to 2 and then mark all around from 1 to 3, 4, 5, 6, to 2 and call this your copy of the back part of your coat. To continue be careful to draw a short line across at 5 towards 7 and connect then the front part at that particular space which means that the front part is lapped over from 6 to 7. 1 inch which means a 1 inch deduction for no seam at the under-arm, and in order to continue in marking out the entire front, be very careful and lap the bottom of the front into the back at 8 just as much as you desire to get the bottom of the coat; but in order to do so, it will be necessary for us to measure across from 2 to 9 and see that the space between 2 to 9 shall not amount to more than the width of cloth that you may expect to use for this particular garment. Now for instance, the average width of cloth is about from 26 to 27 inches double width. It is therefore necessary to measure between 2 and 9, 26 inches and then settle down with the entire front and mark from 9 to 8 which completes the bottom of the front and then mark from 8 to 7 which completes the side seam and which is undoubtedly closed for this garment.

Now finish the front, continue in marking around the armhole from the front from 7 up to 10 to 11, 12, 13 and down at the front to 9. When having the front entirely marked out be careful and see that the connection is made properly between the front and back. When making a one piece garment it will always be necessary to deduct ½ inch all over the upper part of the back which means at the neck and shoulders and which is shown from 1 to 14, 3 to 15 and 4 to 16 in order to make a good shape of armhole.

Now change the armhole from the back towards the front which you may notice with traced lines from 5 up towards 10 which will make this armhole more comfortable for a garment of this kind and to all garments which may be built on a one piece foundation.

The dart which is shown at 12. is taken out, not to better fit this garment as this garment can fit without it, but rather for the purpose of producing a trifle bust effect to this garment and this may be therefore removed on any other part of the neck between 11 and 12, and as this is the best place for such dart, I therefore recommend to use the same at that particular place where the neck from 11 to 12 is finished or where the hook or lap over of the front is, which is from 12 to 13. The dart at 12 shall be from 3 to 4 inches deep.

Do not forget that no other connections are necessary for a one piece garment and no additional seams whatever should be allowed as this particular foundation is cut with seams, but should there be a necessity of cutting entirely without seams, it can also be obtained by following up our method which is to be found in this book, which will show you how to obtain a foundation pattern without any seams allowed and for preparing that kind of a foundation in a one piece garment, the rules may be applied on the same style as this diagram is showing, with the exception that the seam under the arm between 5 and 7 is not to deducted, otherwise this diagram is complete.