Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/82

76 DOUBLE BREASTED BOX COAT

LESSON NO. 26.

This garment is drafted on the very same outline as the short box coat. The only difference of this garment is that the space between the armhole is divided between 1 and G which makes 4, and from 4 to 5 is 1½ inches taken out. The hip is also measured as usual from 1 to R is ⅔ of hip measurement or 14 inches for the 42 hip measurement; from R to 3 is 2 inches allowed for fullness. This space can also be changed to 1 inch if less fullness or narrow bottom is wanted. If no fullness whatever is wanted at this space no allowance shall be made except the hip measurement. Now draw a line as usual from 4 to E down to 11 and from 5 to 3 down to 13 which will finish the two side seams for front and back. The measurement for this garment is absolutely the same as for all other garments.

The button stand of this garment is 4 inches which gives this front a double breasted effect. We first allow from Z to W is ¾ of an inch which makes a raised up neck or button up neck and then we measure from W to 10. from Z to 9, X to Y, 7 to 8, 4 inches for button stand. From 9 to 10 is 1½ inches or a double amount of the space between Z to W. Now curve as shown on the diagram from W to 10, 9 down to Y and draw a line down straight from 8, 14 and 15. from 14 to 15 is 1½ inches which will finish the entire length of the front. The dart at W which is cut in from W to 23 is about 4 inches deep and only ⅛ of an inch is to be taken out both sides of the center line and lost at 23, this dart will bring more bust to the garment.

The breast pocket is placed from F to 19, 1 inch forward and the size of the pocket is followed by ¼ of the size of which this amounts to 4½ inches for size 36 which is measured from 19 to V. From V to 21 is about 1 inch which makes this pocket slanty and the flap which is over this pocket which is from 19 to 20 and 21 to 22 is about 2 inches width, this is a matter of taste.

The lower pocket is always followed by the guide line of the front armhole which is drawn from G to F down to the half space between the waist and hip line from the center of this line, measure 3 inches to both sides, to 17 and 18, which makes this pocket 6 inches for this size, or it shall be followed according to ⅓ of the size for the entire pocket amounting to 6 inches for size 36. The place of this pocket might be also on the hip line for a very long coat and the size of pocket shall remain the same amount. The width of this pocket flap is about 3 inches, this is also to be followed according to taste and style.

The bottom of this coat. In order to finish the bottom of this coat place front from 11 to 12 about ¾ of an inch which will give a round finish to the back and after measure the space between 4 and 12 and apply the same for the side seam of the front from 5 to 13 and connect with a round curve to front from 13 to 15.

If a shaped effect is wanted, on such as this garment, you may follow the dotted line on the side seam which will show how to shape this garment on the side about 1 inch on each side, follow the curve from 4 to 12 for the back part and from 5 to 13 for the front side. Now make all curves as shown on the diagram. The inside line at the center of back from A to N is showing how to deduct ⅜ of an inch if no seam is wanted at the center of the back. This completes this garment.