Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/80

74 EIGHTEEN GORE JACKET

LESSON NO. 25.

The foundation of this garment is thesameas the fourteen gore. The difference in this is, that this has one more seam running across the shoulder which gives one additional gore in back and front parts. Begin to work at the back, from R to Z is 2¼ inches, from S to X is 1¼ inches which means one inch less than on the hip line, between X and 3 is ¼ of an inch, from Z to 2 is ⅝ of an inch lapped over to the back, from 3 to 4 is 1½ inches, from 2 to 11 is 2½ inches, this makes the second gore. From 4 to 5 is ⅜ of an inch and from 11 to 12 is ⅝ of an inch. From 5 to 66 is 1½ inches and from 12 to 13 is 2½ inches, this completes the third gore at the back. From 13 to 14 is ⅝ of an inch, from 66 to 7 is a ½ inch and this begins the two inner side bodies and we therefore now complete the french seams at the back. Therefore divide the back shoulder; from L to 43 is 1½ inches, from 34 to 44 is also 1½ inches, now take half of 43 to 44 which makes M, now draw a straight line from 43 to X, from M to 4, from 44 to 66: now make curved lines with the round stick from 43 to 3, from M to 5 and from 44 to 7, this completes the french seam at the back.

Now begin the side bodies; from 7 to 8 divide which makes 9, divide also from I to N which makes 6, now draw a line from 6 to 9 and 15, from 6 to 5 is ¾ of an inch for the raise of the armhole, now take out on the waist line on both sides of 9, 55 and 56, ½ inches and allow on the hip line from 15 to 16 and 17, ½ of an inch, now draw lines from 6 and 55 to 56 which is the waist line, from 55 to 17 and from 56 to 16, from G to N and E to XX is always ¾ of an inch, from 8 to 10 is 1 inch, now make ¼ inch space from N to the front way of armhole and draw a line to 10. From E to 19 and XX to 18 is each 1 inch, now draw lines from 8 to 18 and 10 to 19.

The foundation of the front is the same as other tight-fitting fronts; the french seams are also similar to others and matched to the back part of this garment. We make the outlines for the darts, from N to 10 take half which is 23 and from 1 to 25 which makes 24 and draw a line from 23 to 24, this shows the height of the darts raising up at the front.

Now make the spaces for the darts, from 24 to 20 is 2 inches, the same is from 20 to 2 land from 21 to 22, now measure the spaces on the waist line, from 25 to 26 is 2¼, inches, the same is from 26 to 27 to 28, now draw lines for the dart from 20 to 26 down to 46, from 21 down to 27 to 45, and from 22 to 28 down to 35. now take out between 26 and 29 a ¼ inch, from 27 to 30 is ½ inch, from 28 to 31 is 1½ inches. Now draw lines from 20 to 29 and 47, from 21 to 30 and 48, from 22 to 31 and 36, from 46 to 47, ¼ of an inch, from 45 to 48 is about ⅜, of an inch. Measure from 28 to 35 and make the same from 31 to 36, now connect 10 to 19 with 6 inches and curve 19 to 36, now curve from 35 to 48, 45, 47, 46, to 32; 32 is a ½ inch curved up from 50.

Now begin the french seams at the front, from O to 37 is the same as from L to 43, from V to 38 is the same as from 34 to 44, now divide the space between 37 to 38 which makes 39, from M to 43 and 44 and make the same from 39 to 40 and 41. Now cross a line from 41 to 20 and 40 to 22, now cross a line from 37 lost to 20 as this place of garment shall not be increased for the bust. Now draw a line from 38 to 53, the space between 22 and 53 shall be ¾ of an inch as the bust is only increased on this part of the garment.

Now begin to curve, from 37 to 20 down to 26 and 46, from 41 to 20 down to 29 and 47, from 39 to 21 down to 27 and 45, again from 21, 30. down to 48, from 40 to 22 down to 28 and 35, from 38 to 53 down to 31 and 36, when cutting out this garment seams should be allowed on the back parts at 43 and 44 and also at the front parts at 38 and 40 and 37 to 41 lost to the waist. This completes the 18 gore tight-fitting garment.