Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/78

72 FOURTEEN GORE GARMENT

LESSON NO. 24.

The foundation of this diagram is the same as the others. Now we begin the different actions at the back which are as follows; from S to X is one twelfth of size or 1½ inches, from R to Z is 1 more inch or 2½ inches, from X to 3 is ½ inch to be taken out, from Z to 2 is ¾ of an inch lapped back for the hip increase. From 3 to 10 is also 1½ inches, from 2 to 39 is also 2½ inches. Now take out from 10 to 9 again a ½ inch, from 39 to 40 allow ¾ of an inch. The difference between the hip and the waist is always 1 inch, if the gore measures on the hip line 2½ inches, it measures on the waist 1½ inches.

Now divide the shoulder for 2 seams. Before we place the french seams, we allow from M to 34, ¾ of an inch for one seam as on diagram and after we divide for the shoulder seams. From L to 43 is 2 inches, from 34 to 44 is also 2 inches, now connect straight lines from 43 to X and from 44 to 10. After completeing the straight lines, draw curved lines from 3 to 43 and from 9 to 44, these curved lines shall meet on the breast line with the straight lines now make the lines from the waist to the hip as follows: From X to Z, from 2 to 3, from 10 to 39 and from 9 to 40, now take half of H and N which makes 6, also half of 9 and 15 which makes 7, now draw a line from 5, 6, 7 and 8; from 6 to 5 is 1 inch up, now decrease the waist part at 7 and increase the hip at 8, now both sides of 7 take out ¾ of an inch to 4 and 14 and both sides of 8, allow ¾ of an inch to 11 and 12 and connect lines from 6 to 4 and 14, also from 4 to 1 1 and from 14 to 12, and then allow from 13 to 41, 1 inch and connect with 15; this finishes the side seam.

Now begin to build the front part as usual; from 15 to 16 is always 1 inch for tight-fitting garments, from 18 to 19 is 1½ inches and from 18 to 21 is 2 inches, this part of the garment is also the same for all tight-fitting garments.

Now begin the darts in front; to have a proportional raise up for the darts, we divide N to 16 which makes 23, also from 1 to 22 which makes 24, now cross a line from 23 to 24. Measure from 24 to 25, 2½ inches, and from 25 to 26, 3 inches, now make these spaces on the waist line with a ¼ inch more than on the top line, as from 22 to 27 is 2¾ inches, and from 27 to 28 is 3¼ inches, now draw lines from 25 to 27 down to 29, also from 26 to 28 down to 30, and decrease the waist in front, both sides of 27 and 28, from 27 to 31 is ¼ inch, and from 27 to 32 is a ½ inch, from 28 to 35 is ½ inch and from 28 to 36 is 2 inches, from 29 to 51 and 50 is a ¼ inch also 30 to 52 is a ¼ inch, now draw lines from 25 to 31 down to 50, draw lines from 25 to 32 and 51, from 26 to 35 to 52, from 26 to 36, to 37. At this part of the garment be very careful, draw a parallel line from 3 5 to 3 7 and square a line down to 38, from 37 to 38 shall be 6 inches, also from 16 to 42. now connect 42 to 38 with a curve.

Now begin to make the french seams in front; in order to begin, measure the space at the back from L to 43 and make the same from O to 45, now measure from 44 to 34 and make the same from U to 46, now allow from 45 to 20 ⅜ of an inch and from 46 to 17 also ⅜ of an inch. Now this space from 17 to 2 will match the width of 43 and 44, now connect lines from 20 to 25, 17 to 26, also connect a line lost from 45 to 25; from 46 draw a line against 54 and remember that the space of 54 is ¾ of an inch for bust increase as there is no increase made at the first french seam as it is built near the front and then connect with curves from 54 down to 26, 36, 37 to 38. Now make all curves as shown on diagram from 25 to 31 and 50 again from 25, 32 and 5 1, now curve the bottom from 52 to 51, 50 and 49, 49 is a ½ inch up from 48. This completes the 14 gore fitting garment.