Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/76

70 TIGHT FITTING FRENCH SEAM JACKET.

LESSON NO. 23.

This garment is drafted the same way as lesson 3; this draft is only changed with the french seams. In order to begin, we allow en the back shoulder from M to 34, ¾ of an inch for a seam which is placed in the middle part of the back shoulder which is called french seam at 33. 33 is half between Land 34; from 33 draw a straight line down to X: from X to 3 is 1 inch and draw a line with round stick to meet the straight line on the breast line at 46 and up to 33. The curve from 26 to 6 shall not be very round in order to correspond with the straight line of the back from 25 to 5; this completes the french seam at the back.

Now begin the french seam at the front; in order to begin take half of O and U which makes 35. now allow ⅜ on both sides to 37 and 38 for a full seam to correspond with the back shoulder. Draw a line from 3 7 to 30 which is lost to 27 and 28; this makes the outside front; from 37 draw a line to 47 down to 31 and 32; and curve, this space shall be ¾ of an inch parallel space all the way down between 37 and 38 and 30 to 47. Now it shall be understood that this ¾ of an inch is a production or an allowance for a seam which is occupied on this part of the garment from the top of shoulder to the bust. Now curve at 47 to 30 crossing the connection down to 31 and 32. This completes the french seam in front.

In order to allow the button stand as a rule the entire draft is to be first completed, and after we make 1 inch button stand as this is a tight fitting jacket which is made from 1 to 20 and from 22 to 35. and when the same is allowed make allowance for collar stand which is from O to 42, 1 inch and then draw a line from 42 to the decided opening of the lapel or where the first button is to be placed of which we are supposed to have it on the breast line at No. 20, and draw a line therefore from 20 against 42 to 43. Between 42 to 43 is one sixth of size and ½ inch which amounts to for this size 3½ inches and finish with a line from O to 44 to make the entire collar stand.

To continue in making the proper neck curve for the collar, curve from O against W out to 39 and measure from the traced line at that neck curve to 39, 3 inches for the facing of the lapel and then make for the lapel between 39 and 40, 2 inches and for the collar notch between 39 and 41, 1¾ inches. You will note that this lapel is showing a double breasted effect, and therefore the line between 39 and 40 is traced up instead of a plain sloping line as we make the single breasted lapel and now make a curved line therefore between 40 and 20.

The width of collar is 2½ inches between 43 and 45 and make therefore the curve connection between 45 and 41 and we make the same curve for all collars. Before cutting out such pattern, be careful and curve the front edge a trifle opposite the waist line at 2 1 and allow a trifle spring at the bottom around 35 and raise up also a curve at 35 beginning from 28 out to 35. This completes this garment.