Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/74

68 TIGHT FITTING JACKET TWO DARTS IN FRONT.

LESSON NO. 22.

This lesson begins the same way as lesson 3; this diagram is showing two darts in front also the button stand and collar. To begin the darts, we take half of N to 14 which makes 23. Now take half of 1 and 21 which makes 24, this line shows us the height of raising up the darts for the bust. Now begin to make the space between the darts, from 24 to 25 is 2½ inches, from 25 to 26 is 3 inches, from 21 to 27 is 2¼, inches, from 27 to 28 is 3¼ inches. Now draw lines from 25 to meet 27 and 29 also from 26 to meet 28 and 30. Now we make the side lines for the dart, from 27 to 31 is ¼ inch, from 27 to 32 is ½ inch, from 28 to 35 is ½ inch, from 28 to 36 is 2 inches. Now cross parallel lines from 35 to 37, now make all side lines for the darts from 25 to 31, 48 also, from 29 to 48 is ¼ inch, connect 25 to 32, 47 is ¼ from 29. Now draw lines from 26 to 35 and to 46, from 46 to 30 is ¼ inch, again draw lines from 26 to 36 to meet 37 and square a line from 35 to 37 down to 38, this completes the two darts in front.

The button stand for a tight fitting jacket is 1 inch, the allowance shall always be made on the breast and hip lines. From 1 to 20 is 1 inch and from 22 to 50 is also 1 inch for bottonbutton [sic] stand, from 50 to 51 is ½ inch allowed from the waist line lost.

Now begin the collar and lapel; in order to begin the collar we shall first decide the opening of the coat, the opening shall always be marked on the outside of the button stand; for short lapels we begin the lapel on the breast line. Before we begin to draft the collar, we make 1 inch space for collar stand from O to 42, this is from the front neck point to the stand line for the collar. Draw a line from 20 to 42 and 43, from 42 to 43 is $1/undefined$, of size or 3 inches. 43 to 44 is 1 inch, connect 44 to O and curve the neck to W down to 39 and 40. from W to 39 is 3 inches, this space can be changed to any width wanted. From 39 to 40 is 2 inches lapel notch from 29 to 41 is the collar notch, this space should always be ¼ inch less than the lapel, from 43 to 45 is 2½ inches and draw a line to 41, ½ inch lower than the notch of the collar, and shape out the collar between 45 and 41 and finish up at 39.

Now curve the front from 20 to the waist part of the front and from the waist begin to shape out with a ½ inch from 50 to 51, curve the bottom of front now curve 14 to 16 with 6 inches, from 37 to 38 and 35 to 46 shall also be 6 inches now curve from 16 to 38, curve from 46 to 47 and 48 to 49. 49 is a ½ inch curved up from 50.

Remember that when cutting out patterns notches shall be made at the waist line for the back part at S and XX, on the back side body at 3 and 10 on the inner side body at 9 and 4 and on the front at 14 and also at the lapel beginning at 26 and at the notch of lapel of 39. This completes the diagram with all seams allowed.