Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/72

66 TIGHT FITTING JACKET.

LESSON NO. 21.

This lesson will complete the tight-fitting garment. From 4 to 14 is 1 inch. Now draw a line from 14 to N ¼ of an inch space in front from N, from 13 to 15 is 1 inch, from E to 16 is also 1 inch now cross a line from 14 to 16 and from 4 to 15, this is a full increase of the side hip. From 18 to 19 is 1½ inch, from 18 to 20 is 2¼ inches or 1 eighth of size. Now draw a line from 14 to 20 to reach 21, draw a line from 1 against 19 to reach 2 1 and 22. Measure from 21 to 22, 6 inches, also correct from 14 to 16. 6 inches for hip space. Draw a line from 22 to 16, this will finish the length of hip in front.

Now we begin the outline for a dart in front, divide the chest from F to 1 to make 23. Now take the amount between 1 and 23 and place same from 19 and 24 and draw a line from 23 against 24, 26 and 25. Now divide the space from 23 and 26 to make 30, from 26 to 27 is 1 inch, 25 to 28 1¾ inches, from 26 to 29 is 3 inches. Now connect lines from 30 to 27 and from 30 to 29 and 31. Now draw a line from 2 7 to 2 8, cross the parallel lines with the waist from 2 7 to 31. Now connect a square line from 27, 31 and 32. The space between 31 and 32 shall be carefully even in length in order to have the dart of this garment correctly understood.

Begin to curve at the neck part and back at A. We first test a sixth of a size from L to A and whatever is over-built towards A. We curve down to T which is the depth of the size line, now hollow the both shoulders, also curve from M to S4, from 34 to H to XX as shown on diagram. From X we directly begin to curve and finish at Z, now we increase from 34 to X a ½ inch up, ⅜ for a seam and we again curve for the side from X to H to No. 3. From 3 to 2 we again curve seperately from the waist line, now curve from X with a seam allowed to 5. at 5 raise the seam allowance for the inside side body and curve to G, N, now at the same time we complete the front armhole, from U to V and N, this completes the work of the armhole, we again begin to curve for the inside side body, begin the side curve from 5 to 9 and 10 to be finished strong at the waist line now we start with the curve from the waist to the hip line from 9 to 12 and 1 to 11. This places the curves on the hip.

Now begin the side hip curving, from 4 to 15,have the same amount of curving as 9 to 12, from 14 to 16 make a strong curve which is about ¾ of an inch, this part of the garment should always carry the strongest curve as this is the strongest part of the hip wanted for a tight fitting garment. Now begin to curve the dart in front up from 30 about 1 inch begin to curve from 27 and 28 also from 30, 29, 31 and 32, at 30 always curve strong in order to have the dart lost at the finishing of 30 and up to 1 inch. Now curve from 16 to 32 and from 28 to 22 and a ½ inch up as shown on diagram. Now begin to curve the neck from O to 39, from 39 curve to 1, from 1 to 19, from 19 to 21 and 22, always increase to front by shaping with ½ inch towards the front at 22.

This completes the tight-fitting garment, This garment can be used for all sorts of tight-fitting outlays wanted.