Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/70

64 TIGHT FITTING FOUNDATION.

LESSON NO. 20.

This lesson is particularly switching off to a tight-fitting garment and by all means we are to follow the foundation lines of the first and second lessons and therefore, in order to begin, complete the foundation lines of the above mentioned lessons with the exception that we make the following changes. Instead of drawing the front armhole line from U to P we raise from P to V 1 inches and we conrkect a line from U to V which will lead the tight-fitting armhole in front and except this we do not make any use of the edge line at the front as shown in the last lesson. Now continue as follows:

In order to continue this foundation for a tight-fitting garment we prepare another line 6 inches below the waist which is called the hip line. This line is placed from C to D and it is always 6 inches below the waist line and draw a line across from D parallel with C.

Now begin the back; from D to N is 1½ inches always and connect a line from N to O. The space between C and O is always 2 inches. Now measure from N to 1 1 sixth of size or 3 inches for size 36 and make 1 inch less from O to 2 which makes that space 2 inches. Now connect a line from 1 to 2 and from 2 to H.

Now begin the side body; from 2 to 6 is 1 inch which will make a decrease at the waist; allow an increase for hip at the hip line from 1 to 5, ¾ of an inch. Now draw a line from 5 to 6 and from 6 up to H.

Now begin the side seam at front and divide for two side bodies. Allow from G to 7 and E to 8, ¾ inch and draw a line from 7 down to 8. Now divide at the breast line from 7 to H which makes 10 and at the waist line from 9 to 6 which makes 11 and draw a line from 10, 11 down to 12. From 10 to 13 is 1 inch up for the raising of the side bodies at the armhole.

Now divide the side bodies; when the line is drawn for the side bodies take out on both sides of 11 to 14 and 15, ¾ of an inch, draw a line up from 14 and 15 up to 10 and allow both sides of 12 at the hip line to 16 and 17, ¾ inches for the increase of hip and connect lines from 15 to 16 and from 14 to 17. When these lines are all complete it shall be understood that we have decreased the waist both sides of 11, as the waist is a great deal smaller than any other width measurement used for this garment and the hip again, we have increased at the hip line at both sides of 12 as the hip is the fullest measurement of all the width measurements used for this garment. This diagram is complete.

The next lesson will show how to complete the entire tight-fitting garment.