Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/68

62 REGLAN OR BALMAAGAN JACKET.

LESSON NO. 19.

To begin this draft, make complete foundations as usual on the style of a half fitting jacket and divide immediately the armhole space between I and P which will bring the center underarm as for a blouse. To continue, draw straight lines down from the center armhole at AA down to CC to the hip line, then make the armhole lower from A. to FF about 1½ inches and cross a straight line out towards the front and back from FF to HH and from FF to GG and remember that the balmaacan sleeves need positively a deeper armhole than the usual armhole is for about H inches at least. Now take out both sides of FF to PP and QQ, ¾ of an inch and both sides of BB on the waist line, 1½ inches and then connect with straight lines from PP and QQ to the wai.st line and from the waist line to the hip line both to one connection to CC and curve then from CC for the back to DD and for the front to EE which is to be curved with a round stick to bring the exact curve needed. When this seam is alt complete, continue of preparing the sleeves.

To begin this balmaacan sleeve, shape first the deep armhole at the back from M to QQ and the front the same way to PP and after draw a line from the point of back neck from L towards the curve of the armhole and also the same way at the front with the exception that from S to DZ. Now make the straight line to the curve of the front armhole and then place the square to both lines, front and back, to point out each shoulder point as shown on the back at RR and at the front at UU and then measure from RR to TT 1½ inches and from UU to VV 1½ inches and make curves as shown on the diagram at the back from L to TT lost to the arm-hole and the same way at the front from DZ to VV also lost to the armhole and then this will complete the armhole for this particular sleeve.

To continue the sleeve, now measure for the sleeve directly from I to II and from P to JJ ¼ of size which amounts to 4½ inches for size 36 and then raise this line up from JJ to KK and from II to L and also make a straight lie down from JJ to LL and from II to MM and follow carefully the measurements of each and every space as follows: From II to L amounts to 8 inches and from JJ to KK amounts to 8½ inches. You will note that the front sleeve is a half inch more than the front. This is done to follow the effect of the front armhole as the front armhole is somewhat longer. Now note that at I. we allow ½ inch at the sleeve and then use the same line which is drawn from the armhole from I, to RR and from R to SS there is allowed only ¼ of an inch and curve the same way from L to SS and lost to the armhole curve to QQ. Now draw the line the same way from KK; first increase ½ inch as shown on the diagram, and for the front sleeve, divide particularly from KK to the breast line as the notch is showing which makes WW and there allow ¾ of an inch and curve as shown from KK to the raise up of W and lost to the armhole curve of the front down to PP.

Now finish the inside seam; when the upper part of the sleeve is complete, measure from JJ to LL, and from II to MM, 18 inches inside sleeve length and note that this measurement has to be increased always from the breast line so that the under sleeve length will always follow its rule and whatever amount the armhole is deeper, the inside sleeve will shorten the very same amount. Now draw a line from LL to MM and measure the entire space from LL to MM which is supposed to be 18 inches. If you desire to have the bottom width of sleeve 12 inches, measure from MM to OO 6 inches and from LL to NN also 6 inches and make a curve with the round stick from NN to PP and from OO to QQ which will finish the inside sleeve length. The bottom of the sleeve is finished by raising from LL to EZ and from MM to FZ¾ inches and curve to the inside sleeve length to OO and NN as shown on the diagram.