Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/66

60 COLLARLESS KIMONO JACKET.

LESSON NO. 18.

This jacket is drafted on the same foundation as others and is showing two features. The first one, the jacket as the kimono with shortened sleeves and the collarless effect. The collarless part may be more important than the kimono effect as the kimono effect has been already explained in the previous pages.

To describe the changes on this kimono sleeve, note these instructions. The deepness of the armhole of this jacket is taken half of the armhole length which is from X to Z. This is half the under-arm length. The shoulder seam at the back is round and in order to obtain the same, use the round stick or a curved ruler from the regular shoulder from N to the bust point V and square a line from V to 14 to connect 14 to 1 as usual. You will note that No. 14 rests on the waist line and this is not done to particularly rest on that waist line: but it is followed by the deepness of this width which has been measured as usual from the top line from the deepness of the armhole; this completes the back part.

The front shoulder remains as it is and this is not increased with 3 inches in width; but is used as usual which is drawn from R to T and all there is to be done that the measurement of the top sleeve from the back which is from M to V is increased and the same amount which is about 20 inches is placed at the front shoulder seam from R to 13. Now square a line down from 13 to S and from S connect to 2 as usual. This round and flat action of the shoulder seam for this jacket is done as this diagram is describing flat or round shoulder kimono sleeve which you will note by the minature cut attached to this diagram describing the style of the entire jacket.

The collarless effect of this garment is the second interest in this lesson which is produced as follows: If a collarless coat or jacket is wanted, it is necessary to allow and to raise the height of neck. As a rule, we first begin with the back. Raise from A to 11 1 inch: also from M to 12 1 inch and then curve from 11 to 12 and from 11 to K lost with a curve as shown on the diagram; this completes the front part. Now increase from R to 10 at the front part also 1 inch and curve from 10 lost to V which is the bust! line and you will note that this diagram is a strong lap over instead of double breasted effect and you will therefore note the straight line drawn from R to V down to 7 which will make the space of increase of the double breasted effect from 6 to 7 about 4 inches. It is necessary to note that this garment is not particularly cut double breasted; but this action is brought by this particular style which brings this full lap over front. The collarless effect itself can be allowed to any short opening or to any style of buttoning garments, single or double breasted, and all the collarless garment may dictate to us chat it is a garment that has no collar whatsoever attached; hut the amount for the stand which is as a rule covered by the collar is allowed to the neck which serves for that purpose and covers the space of a stand and makes the garment have a close fitting neck; this diagram is otherwise complete.