Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/64

58 KIMONO JACKET SHAWL COLLAR

LESSON NO. 17.

To begin the kimono jacket, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, as usual all the way out to the bust with seams allowed and at the very same time we may allow 1½ inches button stand for this jacket as a butterfly jacket is a half fitted foundation and this amount of button stand makes the allowance for the single breasted front for half fitted jackets and the double breasted front may also be used and for such allow 3 inches for button stand. When the entire foundation is prepared, make for the length of jacket from 1 to 5 about 36 inches in length and begin to draft direct for the kimono jacket.

Divide the arm space between 14 and 22 which will make 24 and from 29 draw a line down to the hip line which makes 32 and then take out both sides of 29 to 12 and 30, ¾ inches and on the waist line on both sides of 31 to 33 and 34, take out 1½ inches on each side and draw a line after from 12 to 34 and 30 to 33 which will make the two side seams for the front and back. Now draw the hip line from 33 to 32 down to 35 and from 34 to 32 down to 36; this will complete the under arm seam for this jacket.

In preparing the kimono sleeve, we need to decide about a certain deepness for the arm which is the rule of this garment: that at least 1½ inch deepness has been made from the regular armhole. For instance for this style of garment we are making 2 inches deep and there, fore measure from 12 to 37 2 inches and cross a line from 37 to 38.

Now prepare the back part, cross a line from the back shoulder from 13 to 16 out to 39. From 16 to 39 is 12 inches; but remember that this is a certain length and that we may follow any length as desired. These 12 inches will make about half length sleeve and the proper sleeve length may be followed at the under arm length which may be found in the following instructions. Now draw a line from 39 down to 40 and in order to obtain the measurement for this width, we need to measure the space between 38 and the top line which is produced of the back shoulder and then apply the same amount from 39 to 40 and connect a line from 40 to 38. This rule of measuring the width of sleeve to the top line of the same is to see that we obtain the parallel width of sleeve and when this is done, curve at 38 as shown on the diagram.

The front kimono sleeve, we start somewhat different then the back part. To begin in. crease from 26 to 41 4 inches and connect with a line to 27 which is the regular width of shoulder at the front and after measure the width of back sleeve from 39 to 40 and apply the same from 41 to 42 with 1 inch increased or 1 inch more. For instance if the sleeve width from 39 to 40 is 8 inches, then make from 41 to 42 at the front sleeve 9 inches in width and connect from 42 to 37 and curve as shown on the diagram. To know every situation of the kimono draft, note the following instruction. Why it is necessary to increase the front sleeve from 26 to 41 4 inches. This is done for the simple reason that the front shoulder line is more slanty than the back shoulder seam as this slantness of the front is brought by the high raising of the front neck and these 4 inches will bring the seam at the proper place when the kimono is made with a shoulder seam.

The cut-a-way part of the jacket is connected from the full length in back to the opening in front. To begin the same make a round curve from the center of the back from 5 to the side seam of the back to 35 and cross a straight line to the side seam of front from 35 to 36 and then make a suitable cut-a-way curve from 36 to the opening or beginning of shawl collar in the front to 44. The shawl collar for this jacket is the same as shawl collar on the mannish jacket lesson 15, the difference of this may be that this shawl is built with a long opening reaching as far as the waist line and having a connection with a cut-a-way front as you will note on the diagram.