Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/62

56 HALF FITTING JACKET, REVERE FRONT.

LESSON NO. 16.

This jacket is built on a half fitting foundation and it is specially changed for this particular style. Note that the back is exactly a half fitting french seam back and the inner part of the back is one piece with the front which is connectable to this style of garment; but by all means a seam can be placed under the arm opposite to the pleat showing on the side or it might be connectable into the inside pleat which is nearer to the underarm. In order to fully understand the style of this garment you will note that the sketch of the entire garment is shown on the diagram. To begin draw lines as usual and use measurements of size 36 or as you may desire. If followed by size 36, measure from A to B 7 inches back depth and from A to C 15½ inches natural waist length; from C to I) 6 inches hip length and from A to E is 36 inches full length of the jacket. From A to F and D to H is ⅔ of size as usual which amounts to 12 inches for the regular size 36. Now draw a line from F, G to H and divide for the back as usual from B to G which makes I and from I to J allow 1¼ inches.

Now continue with the front which will be probably more important in order to obtain this style of jacket. Now allow from G to P and from to R and from R to S and T 1 sixth of size all over or 3 inches for size 36 and then measure the bust as usual from 8 to and from X allow to W 3 inches for seams. Note carefully that as far as that, this diagram is the same as the standard foundation which you may remember that whatever style you may desire, the foundation is always to be drawn the same way without any changes.

To continue, we now allow a button stand of 3 inches from V to X and draw a line down from W to 11 and from X to Y. From 10 to 11 is 2 inches which indicates the length of waist in front and where the revere is stopped for this style of garment. To fully understand this revere style which means a spilt into the front showing a split revere, we begin the same by measuring as usual from T to 9 3 inches which is the same as the button stand and at 9 raise up ¾ of an inch and then make a round stick curve lost from 9 towards X down to Y. In order to fully understand how the line at Y and 12 is situated, measure from 11 to 12 6 inches which will make the space between the waist length or between 10 to 12 8 inches for this size and you may also remember that this space should remain for all sizes alike and that this particular space is not followed by the size; but for the style only and it is therefore to remain for all sizes the same style, now make a parallel curve line from T to 11 to follow the shape of the edge line which is drawn from 9 to Y and after, on both sides of 11 make 1½ inches which shows cut across and ready for stitching from T to 11 on both sides to 11 as shown on the diagram and note the sketch on the diagram which will complete this revere in the proper manner.

'The darts for this jacket which brings a trifle fitting at the side, are situated opposite the front part of the armhole. To begin to mark the darts, draw a line opposite the line from P to and Q down to the waist length and another dart at 14; between 13 and 14 is 1½ inch space and at the bottom of the dart No. 14, begin the spilt which is made between 19 and 20. 20 is the half space between the under-arm line and No. 4 or half way between H and 2 and it is about 1½ inches below the waist line. From 19 to 15 is about 4 inches deepness and the edge of the front pleat from 15 to 17 is opposite the dart No. 13. The space between 15 to 16 and 17 to 18 is a 2 inch space, the center of that is splited as shown on the diagram to be used for pleats when the darts at 13 and 14 are taken out, it is understood that the point at 20 will move in more towards the back.