Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/60

54 MANNISH JACKET WITH SHAWL COLLAR.

LESSON NO. 15.

This garment is built on the half fitting foundation; this garment fulfills the requirements of the two part jacket. To begin, we draw the same outlines as always from A to B; C and D is the depth natural waist length and hip length. The width of back is built the same way; I is the width of back line and G is the regular box line; divide from I to G which makes N. Now draw a line from N to R and 2; take both sides of N, ¾ of an inch at 4 and 5; both sides of R, 2 inches at 20 and 21; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch. Then cross lines from 4 to 21 and 2, also from 5 to 20 and 3, this completes the side seam.

This garment requires an underarm seam; this underarm seam is lost to the pocket. To mark the place for the pocket, draw a line down from F to 16 which is at the pocket. The pocket is 2 inches below the waist line. Draw a line somewhat slanting towards the front; this line is the foundation line for the' pocket, now measure the pocket. The center of the pocket which is the Line down to 16 shall be the guide line, and from the center line allow on both sides of 17 and 18 2½ inches so that the pocket measures 5 inches.

The underarm seam shall begin from G to 10 is 1 inch and from 18 to 11 is also 1 inch; draw a straight line from 10 to 11 and shape both sides as shown on diagram. The style of this garment does not require any dart and therefore there is no allowance in front on the waist line. The button standard for this garment is 1½ inches as for all half fitting garments.

This garment is cut with a shawl lapel. To begin shape the neck for the garment very low from O to W down. Mark the opening at 6; then draw a line from 6 to 12; from O to 12 is 1 inch for collar stand; from 12 to 13 is 1 sixth of size, cr 3 inches; from 13 to 14 is 1 inch; draw a line from 14 to O, now measure from 13 to 15 allowing 2½ inches for width of collar, then draw a parallel line from 15 to 19 and curve from 19 to 6 for the original shawl lapel.

For the top collar, draw a line from 14 to 22 and curve all round 14, 13, 15, 9, 19 and 23, this is the top collar. The under collar is from 9, 15, 13, 14, O and W to 24. The top collar should be traced out before the front is cut out; and curve the side body before cutting out the pattern. This completes the sack with a shawl collar.