Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/59

53 HALF FITTING FRONT WITH A DART ON TOP. LESSON NO. 14. In order to begin a half fitting front with a dart on top we need the two front parts of a half fitting French seam garment and those are prepared and cut out from the original draft to use them as follows. Copy first the outside part of the front which means the bottom part from 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 and 8 as shown on the diagram and when this front part is already marked out take the inner part of the front which is carrying the armhole and place the same over to meet at the top notch at 7 and also to meet the lower notch at the bust at 5 so that there will be about ¾ of an inch lapping over from 5 to 10 which is the point of the bust and at the same time see that at the bottom from 4 to 11 should also lap over ¾ of an inch as we are closing the some up from 4 to all the way up to 7 where the beginning of the dart is. Then continue to copy the entire inner part of the front from 7 9 14 all around the armhole from 13 down to 12 and 11 and then make the entire curve out to 3. Remember that before matching the two fronts together see to it that the space from 8 to 7 and 9 to 7 shall be alike so that when the dart is sewed together both parts will come out alike at the top of shoulder, otherwise this lesson is complete. This top dart may also be prepared from any half fitting garment having a dart on bottom, in such case, all that may be done to close the dart on bottom split from top shoulder to the bust point. The diagram above is showing this of a french seam half fitting garment as this is more practical.