Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/56

50 HALF-FITTING JACKET WITH FRONT SIDE BODY LESSON NO. 12

This jacket is drafted on the same foundation as the first half-fitting jacket with the exception that this jacket has no allowance for any dart as it does not carry a regular ordinary dart. The amount which this jacket is taken out at the front side body is about a ½ inch and it therefore does not need any special allowance in front.

To begin, make the entire draft of the half-fitting jacket without the dart in front and make from N to 18, 1½ inches and draw a straight line down to 23, 20 and 19. Note that 23 is the place of bust, which is between the breast and waist line. 20 is the long waist in front and 19 is the bottom of jacket. Now make a curve from 24, which is the place of sleeve notch at the front armhole and curve to 23 down to 20 and 19, which will complete the outside front part of this jacket.

'To prepare the inner part of the front or the side body of the front, begin to curve again at 24 to 23 and take an equal space of 3^ of an inch between 20 and 21 and 19 and 22 and curve from 23 to 21 down to 22.

Note that a slight change has been made on account of the seams at the front side body and therefore allow from G to 11, ⅜ of an inch and draw a straight line down to 9 and lost down to the hip as usual. Also note that for this jacket we do not take out ¾ of an inch at 9, which is at the front side seam at the waist line because the dart at the front side body between 20 and 21 is too near the side seam and the amount of ¾ of an inch supposed to be taken out at 9, is taken out at 20 and 21. Otherwise remember that this jacket is drafted exactly the same way as the first half-fitting jacket, which is shown on pages 42 and 43 with the exception that the allowance of dart in front is not made because there is no regular dart given on this jacket and the dart that is taken out is fulfilled with the amount of ¾ of an inch that is left at 9 and therefore do not expect this jacket to produce the amount of bust effect as the first half-fitting jacket produces.

For button stand and collar for a single-breasted half-fitting jacket allow a ½ inch from X to 25 and Z to 26 and draw a line from 25 to 26 and then mark the opening which can be placed anywheres below the breast line and which is on this draft about 3 inches below breast line from 25 to 27. The stand from Q to AA is 1 inch and draw a line from 27 towards AA to CC and make from CC to AA, $1/undefined$ of size and a ½ inch allowed amounting to 3½ inches for size 36 and measure from CC to DD 1 inch for collar stand connected with Q. From CC to EE make 2½ inches for width of collar in back and curve the front neck from Q towards R down to 28 and measure for lapel facing on the neck curve from BB to 28, 2½ inches for the single-breasted front and from 28 to 29 measure 232 inches for a double-breasted lapel and connect 29 to 27. From 28 to 30 shall be 2 inches and connect with a curve from EE to 30 and the space between 30 and 29 shall be a ½ inch opened and watch diagram closely for all curves and otherwise this jacket is complete.