Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/54

48 VIENNA FRONT, HALF FITTING JACKET LESSON NO. 11. To begin this jacket, it is necessary to prepare first the very first half fitting jacket as shown in the front-pages. You will note that this jacket is exactly the same as the first half fitting jacket with the exception that the front of this jacket is changed for this particular style as follows:

To begin, you change that front far this particular style of the Vienna front. Raise up at the front of armhole from N to BB 1½ inches and lost with a curve to AA as shown on the diagram. You will note that AA is the beginning point of the dart or the place of bust and therefore allow from BB to CC ¾ of an inch and follow with that ¾ of an inch parallel a curve lost to A A down to 25 which is the Waist-line. In order that this action shall be properly prepared it is necessary to know that these 2 new curves are to be positively alike in their shape of form. In order to make distinct the 2 different parts of the front, you will note that BB is connected at A and followed down to 22 and 27 which makes it the outside part of the front. The inside part of front is the part which is to be cut out from CC, AA down to 25, 26 and 28; otherwise the entire jacket is the same as the first half fitting jacket.

Remember that this jacket has all seams allowed just as well as the others and the space between CC which is ¾ the amount is therefore allowed for the usual seams so that there shall not be any confusion of having any seams to allow and therefore remember again; that all seams are allowed already.