Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/52

46 HALF FITTING DOUBLE-BREASTED FRENCH SEAM JACKET

NARROW BACK

LESSON NO. 10

This garment is drafted on the same principles as the last lesson and changes only with the narrow back. To begin measure from S to 5, $1/undefined$ of size amounting to 3 inches for size 36 and Y to 7 measure 1 inch more amounting to 4 inches for this size. From 5 to 6 take out 1 inch and from 7 to 31 allow ¾ of an inch for increase of hip. Then allow ¾ of an inch for the back shoulder width from M to N and then divide the shoulder from L to N making 48. Now connect a straight line from 48 against 5 and from 5 to 7 and then connect with a curved line for the inner part of the back from 48 to 6 and from 6 to 36 To finish the back part entirely, take out from G to 8 and E to 27, ¾ of an inch as usual and if a more fitted side seam is wanted at the back take out at 8, ¼of an inch and from 9 to 11, a ½ inch and finish the side seams of the back and front as usual.

The french seams at the front shall be equally divided to meet the french seams of the back. First get the correct width of shoulder from O to U, which is about 6 inches for regular size, which is to be found at the back shoulder from L to M and divide from O to U making 32. Allow both sides of 32 to 33 and 34, ⅜ of an inch making altogether ¾ of an inch for seams and connect 33 to 28 and from 34 draw a parallel line to 51 and curve from 51 towards 28, 19, 20 and 24. Remember that the dart and the allowance for dart from Z to 1 is the same as the lesson before or the same instruction as the first half-fitting jacket, which is shown in lesson No. 8.

The double-breasted front shall have an increase of 3 inches for the double-breasted lapping over, which is from X to 25 on the breast line and 43 on the bottom line shall be 3 inches. The beginning of the button stand shall be equally taken between the hip and waist line, which is therefore found between 25 and 3 on the front edge line making when equally divided 26. Now extend for collar stand from O to 35, 1 inch and connect from 26 towards 35 and 36 From 35 to 36 is $1/undefined$ of size and a ½ inch allowed amounting to 3½ inches for size 36. When the line is drawn from 36 to 26 and passing along on the neck curve, measure from W to 40, 3 inches for all sizes alike and extend from 40 to 39 a bias line up according to taste and then measure also 3 inches for the double-breasted lapel and measure from 39 to 26, which completes the double-breasted lapel. Then make the collar notch by drawing a line from 40 to 41, which shall be 2 inches and the space between 39 and 41 shall be a ½ inch. The width from 36 to 37 is 1 inch to be drawn parallel to O and from 36 to 38 shall be 2½ inches and curve there as shown on diagram by allowing about a ¼ of an inch at 38 This jacket is otherwise complete with all seams allowed.