Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/50

44 HALF-FITTING SINGLE-BREASTED FRENCH SEAM JACKET BROAD BACK

LESSON NO. 9 This jacket is drafted on the same principles as the first half-fitting jacket with the exception of the french seams. Therefore use the same foundation hues and begin as follows: Draw a line down from J between the equal space of H and I down to 1 at the waist line and, at the same time, mark 4 on the hip line. Extend from 4 to 2, ¾ of an inch and draw a line all the way to the bottom from 1 and 2 to 48 and from 1 to 3 take out ¾ of an inch and connect with a curved line for the inner back part from J against the straight line at the breast line down to 3 and curve from 3 to 4 lost to 49 at the bottom. Allow ¾ of an inch for the french seam from N to M and take out for a half-fitting jacket from G to 5 and E to 6, ¾ of an inch and extend from E to 23 and 6 to 14, ¾ of an inch and make hip curves as usual.

The front part foundation is also continued as usual with the exception of the french seams, which are to match the back part. Therefore make the actual width of shoulder for the front from O to 24, which shall be the same as from L to M. Then measure the space from L to J of the back shoulder and apply the same to the front shoulder from O to 29 and connect a line from 29 to 25. Now measure the space at the back shoulder from J to N and apply the same to the front shoulder from 24 to 30 and draw a parallel line from 30 to 28 to be lost with a curve down towards 25, 17 and 14 down with a straight line to 32. The dart and the allowance for dart is the same as for the first half-fitting jacket and shall therefore be followed according to the first instruction of such dart.

For the single-breasted button stand, allow 1½ inches and therefore allow from V to 33 on the breast line and from Z to 34 on the waist line 11 9 inches and draw a straight line down in front from 33 against 34 down to 35 and 36. Now mark the opening for the lapel showing on this diagram at 37, which is showing the long lapel and can be made either way desired. Extend down the opening line by making from O to 38, 1 inch and then draw the line from the opening to 37, 38 and 39 and measure from W or where the straight line meets with the curve of the neck and measure from there to 42, 3 inches or if a narrow facing is desired for a single-breasted garment, make 2½ inches. Then make from 42 to 43, 2½ inches for a double-breasted lapel on this single-breasted garment and connect 43 to the opening point to 37. The notch of the collar lapel between 42 and 44 shall be 2 inches and the opening between collar and lapel notches shall be a ½ inch. The space from 39 to 40 is 1 inch parallel curved to O and from 39 to 41 is 2½ inches for the outside width of collar. The trace line at the front beginning at the front edge from 34 lost to the bottom at 35 is showing how to make the cut-away front and the space between 35 and 36 is 1½ inches for lengthening the front to show the proper finish at the bottom of the front. The slit in the center back shall be lowered with 2 inches from the natural waist line and therefore note that from S to 50 is 2 inches below the waist line and the width of the hook for slit from 50 to 51 is 1¼ inches all the way down to the bottom to 52. Otherwise this garment is complete with all seams allowed

The pockets shall be placed as follows: The breast pocket from F to 53 is 1 inch and from 53 to 54 is ¼ of size or 4½ inches for size 36. The biasness for the pocket from U to 54 is 1 inch and the width of the veil for the breast pocket is 1¼ inches finished. The lower pocket shall always be placed in the middle space between waist and hip line and place the pocket in from the dart at 56 a ½ inch to leave the proper space for a seam and from 56 to 55 shall measure a ½ inch more than the upper breast pocket, which therefore amounts to 5 inches all finished. Allow for additional seams for the flap, and the width of flap shall be 3 inches finished and also allow additional seams when making up such flap.